Saturday, December 16, 2006

Right Back Where We Started From

Sunday, December 17th

Since the day I left for Ghana in the closing days of July, I’ve wondered what this last piece of writing would be like. I didn’t know what my feelings would be coming here, and leaving here now, I don’t know if there is one clear-cut sentiment.

On the one hand, I am so ready to come home, to be home. I’m ready to get back to the “normalcy” of the high-speed, high-priced American life. I’m ready to get back to my friends and my family. I’m ready to sleep in my room, in my big bed. I’m ready to be cold again, strange as that seems for a boy who loves the heat.

And to be quite frank, there are things that I, without question, will not miss about Ghana and West Africa as a whole. I won’t miss the mosquitoes and the incessant heat and humidity. I won’t miss cold showers and backed-up-for-weeks toilets. I won’t miss being called an obruni and feeling left out of conversation after conversation because I don’t speak Twi or Ga or Ewe or Fanti. I won’t miss hearing Shakira’s “Hips don’t lie” and James Blunt’s “You’re Beautiful” – the only two English non-rap songs played in the country.

At the same time, there are things that I will miss from this place that really has come to feel like home over the last twenty weeks. Coming back from Egypt, I distinctly remember how normal it felt to be in Ghana, soaked by humidity at 5:30 in the morning. I will miss the kindness of Ghanaians, and their bright white smiles that are flashed when saying “hello.” I will miss eating with my hands and sitting down at tables with complete strangers and having conversations like we’ve been friends for years. Undoubtedly, I will miss the beautiful women and adorable children. I will miss how mothers carry women babies on their back, regardless of the work that must be done. Even though I hate being called obruni, I will miss the children chanting in unison: “Obruni, how are you? I am fine. Thank you!” I will miss groundnut soup and rice balls, glass-bottle sodas and tro-tros

For every thing and for every person I’ve missed at home and look so forward to seeing, there is something or someone that I will miss. And while I never quite felt complete without my everyday things or people, I don’t know if I will quite feel complete coming back. I don’t know if coming home will feel “normal.”

There is so much that is being left behind. But there is so much that I am coming home to, and more importantly, there is so much more that I am bringing back with me. And I don’t just mean the physical items: the bright-colored clothing and the woodwork, the chocolate and the akpoteshie. There are memories and moments that can never be replaced, but will always be replayed.

I’ll be bringing back the pride of knowing that I made a difference in the life of refugees. With me forever will be an education that can’t be taught in a classroom. It is a different kind of education, one with lessons in patience and in kindness, in communication and in appreciation for how people live so happily with so little.

I remember before leaving, when telling people that I was going to be in Ghana studying abroad, I would get two questions: “Where is Ghana?” and “Why are you going to Ghana?” I felt somewhat insulted by both. After all, Ghana had just beaten the U.S. in the World Cup. And I felt like people thought I was crazy for going to Africa. And yes, maybe I am a little crazy. Not everybody would give up the good American life to live in a developing country. Not everyone would take a risk of going to a country with countless diseases and crazy driving. But if you never took a risk, you would never be living.

The last five months have been invaluable. There is no price tag that I could put on this time. There is no way that these experiences, these sights and these sounds can be replaced. There is no atlas, no television show, no encyclopedia that can do this justice. In countless ways, this has been a life-changing experience.

Even when I get home, I know this experience will continue to impact me. I will be able to look back on my experiences here, and compare them to life in the U.S. I know I will be more patient. I know that I will smile at people at school when I walk by them. And I know I won’t be scared to sit at a table with a random person and strike up a conversation. That, to me, is now normal.

Normal, I guess, is relative. What is normal today will seem foreign tomorrow. Regardless, it will always be a part of me, even though I must leave it. As much as I have loved my time here, it must come to an end. All good things do.

LDG

The End Days

Thursday, December 14th

I had initially planned on going to the refugee camp one last time today. Raghav called me at nine, and I just wasn’t quite ready to get my day going. For one reason or another, I haven’t slept well the last few nights, and exhaustion has shortened a lot of these last few days.

I went back to sleep for a bit more time, when I got a call from Duncan. He said that he would be going to Aburi in the afternoon, which I thought was a great idea. Francis also planned to go to Aburi, so I made it a party of three. Both Duncan and I weren’t particularly hungry, so we split a smallish 15,000 bowl of Rich Love, which was rather delicious. From there, we went to Zongo Station, where we were met by Francis. The three of us got to Aburi by the middle of the afternoon. I needed a couple things tweaked with my face carvings – they needed to be lightened and they needed hangers on the back. All of this was done very quickly. I also bought a carving of the “Thinking Man,” which is a very cool piece of work.

For most of the trip on the way back, Duncan and I couldn’t stop talking about the last twenty weeks and the sense of finality that each of us was feeling. It seems that with every passing day, something else is “asaa” or it’s the last time for this or that.

I returned to Legon, grabbed my laptop, and headed to Volta. Finally, the internet café was open, so I was able to work on a fast computer – my own.

After an hour of internet playtime, I walked to the Night Market where I got my dinner – fried rice with shredded beef sauce, one of my favorites here.

I spent the rest of the night studying for my last exam (Underdevelopment Theory), watching Barcelona crush Club America (Mexico), and just relaxing.

Friday, December 15th

I sure didn’t sleep that much last night, but the few hours of sleep I got were really good. I was awakened at 7:15 by a rooster. I guess it’s better than a preacher.

The plan for today was to go to the Accra Brewing Company, and then go to Barclays on High Street to get some coins for my poker set. The day turned out nothing like this.

I was due for a day like this – a day where nothing really goes right and nothing at all gets done. I don’t think I’ve had a day quite like this. It was a day that tested my patience to the fullest.

Duncan and I met at the tro-tro stop in front of school with the hopes of catching a tro-tro to Circle, but traffic was hellacious. It wasn’t even worth trying. We split from there: he went to get some palm wine and I decided to go to High Street.

First, though, I decided to stop at different Barclays to see if they could help me. They told me to go to High Street, which I expected. After some quick bargaining, I got a taxi to High Street. Traffic was horrendous, still, so I decided to get out of the taxi and walk the last three kilometers.

Barclays told me that they didn’t have coins and to go to the next building down. So I tried Standard Chartered, who told me likewise: to go to Bank of Ghana. I went to the next building and I saw Ghana Commercial Bank. I figured that this was the same as Bank of Ghana. I went in and waited. The wait wasn’t so bad though. Christmas music, which usually drives me crazy, reminded me of being home, so it was actually quite nice. The told me to go across the street, into a building buried behind a wall – the Bank of Ghana.

The lights were out in Bank of Ghana and the line was the longest I’ve ever seen in a bank. I spoke to one man around 2:30 who told me that he had been waiting since nine in the morning to be helped. There was no way I was going to wait five hours to get turned away. I found a person who worked in the bank and asked if I could get coins. “No, power is out, we can’t get coins.” What? Are you kidding? I am fed up with it. Three hours of my time, and eighty thousand cedis in taxis gone to waste.

I returned to the university to pick up my plane tickets for my flights on Sunday and Monday. This is all very exciting. Especially after a day like today, I’m ready to get back Stateside.

On campus, I picked up my shirt from Sandra, which turned out, as expected, beautifully. I’m very happy with it. I also threw around a Frisbee with Mark and Raghav. It was nice to get the blood flowing a bit. And to see Ghanaians look at crazy Americans throwing around a plastic plate. Once thoroughly tired and sore, I went into Annex A, just to hang out for a bit.

For dinner, I returned to the Night Market. Through all the waiting I had to deal with, I never had the chance to eat. I was very hungry, and the price of my meal – 26,000 cedis – showed it.

The rest of the night is devoted to studying. One more exam

One more full day.

Saturday, December 16th

Today was as frustrating as yesterday for the same reason. Basically, I had an appointment with someone that I waited eleven hours for, and by the end of the eleven hours, it was cancelled. It is very representative of how African appointments work. I’m very frustrated by it, but I’m keeping in mind that I am on a plane tomorrow.

Three good things happened today, amidst all the waiting.

1) As I was getting units for my phone, I made eye contact with this girl. She smiled at me, and I tried to ignore her. After getting units, I passed her. We said “hi” to each other, and then she said, very calmly, “You are handsome.” I will miss that – how straight-forward the girls are. I smiled, and said “you are very beautiful.” She smiled, and I walked away.

2) I absolutely nailed my underdevelopment final. Not only was it easy, but I felt very prepared for it. I know I’ll get an A in that class. It should be a very nice semester for me.

3) I consumed a nice amount of beer – a Stone, a Castle and a Club – in celebration. I got through it all. Although I still feel very torn about leaving, I’m glad to come home.

Friday, December 15, 2006

The Beginning of the End

Monday, December 11th
I feel like a good portion of my day was wasted today. At the same time, though, I was really exhausted. I woke up rather early, but lay in bed until 10:30 or 11, trying to sleep off my hangover. By 12, the hangover was gone, and I was able to get on with the rest of my day. Even then, I still didn’t get a whole lot done.
I stayed in Annex A for most of the day, feeling out of breath. I spent a good portion of the afternoon on my back, trying to sleep, but failing every time.
Around 7, I went over to Devereau’s room at Volta to go over my itinerary in Israel with her. She is going to Egypt and, like me, wants to spend some time in Israel. She has much more time in Egypt, though, and will be able to go to a lot more places.
By 8:30, Diane and I were on our way to Busy Internet, by Circle. Internet was finished everywhere on campus today, and I was pretty desperate to check my email, talk to Joe and Ryan, and take care of some other business. Prior to going, I stopped at Rich Love to get some food. I wasn’t hungry, but knew I had to eat. Even so, I couldn’t even get through half of my food.
I caught a bit of a second wind once I got back into Legon. I stayed up for a bit, addressing all of Francis’s ridiculous hypothetical questions. Once he got tired of asking questions, I fell asleep.

Tuesday, December 12th
I woke up and realized that one week from now (accounting for the time change), I would be home. I really did nothing of importance today.
I studied a little bit for tomorrow’s exam prior to lunch. Francis and I headed into the Rich Love area; I got Rich Love, and he got Babson’s which is also very good. From there we split; he went to Madina and I went back to Legon, to do some more studying.
I feel like I’m prepared for this exam. In terms of content, I have it nailed. If this were UCSD, this amount of content would qualify for midterm. I just don’t really know what to expect in terms of questions or format for this exam, but I should do just fine.
Late night, Francis and I headed to Pizza Inn to get some dinner. This would be the last time for two-for-one pizza, so we had to take advantage of it. Instead of eating it there, we brought it back to the the hostel. Pizza Inn was way to panicked tonight.
There’s no need to go to bed particularly early for my exam. I need to be on campus by 2, so I will sleep in and study a bit in the morning.

Wednesday, December 13th
Once again, I’m having trouble falling asleep. Thoughts are running wild through my mind. Tonight’s thoughts are all centered around home. At this point, this trip feels over. My brain is on the plan. I can’t stop thinking about Sunday, and my glorious return home on Monday. To say that I am excited to get home would be an understatement beyond belief.
Thankfully, my final is at 3:30 in the afternoon and not 7:30 in the morning.
I got up late, as seems to be the trend in these most recent days. It’s hard to find the motivation to get out of bed when there is so little to do. Once I got up, I made my way over toward campus. I met Duncan at the Basement, which is a restaurant in Central Cafeteria, the location of my exam. We ordered our food, and then ran over to Sandra’s. My shirt was supposed to be ready today, but she had yet to do the embroidery. She told me to come back on Friday, which is no problem. It’s the first time she’s been late with any of my clothing, so I will forgive her.
After dining, I squeezed in some final studying for the exam. I didn’t expect any trouble, and the exam proved to be exactly what I thought it would be: easy. I was done pretty quickly, and as I had the highest student identification number, I walked my way from the very back of the room, up to the front, to turn my paper in. I’m sure I got a couple “damn you, obruni” stares as I made my way out.
I spent a little time at Annex A, talking with friends both Ghanaian and American. I also got in a it of internet time. I was hoping to get online at Volta, but once again, their power was out.
On my way back to the hostel, I stopped at the Night Market to get a hot dog and a beef skewer. It’s been really nice to pack in the protein the last couple nights.

Monday, December 11, 2006

Small Travels, Some Laziness

Tuesday, December 5th – Aburi

The one thing I really wanted to get done today was to filling out the rest of my poker set. Oh, yes – I’m making a poker set out of coins from Ghana. It will be amazing.

I walked into two banks, but I couldn’t get rolls of coins at either bank. My morning had pretty much gone to waste.

I took a tro-tro down to the other end of Legon to get some lunch at Rich Love. They had no chicken, which was thoroughly disappointing. It didn’t really matter though. All that meant is that I would have more room for pizza tonight.

After hanging out in the EAP office and checking my email, Francis and I took a pair of tro-tros to Aburi. Nic the Carver told me that my carvings were done and he wanted to talk about staining them. Nic is a machine. He got a ton of stuff done in less than a week, and all of it is pretty impressive. He blew me away with the carvings I got done. Francis and I both discussed what we wanted done, and each of us took some (or a lot, in Francis’s case) stuff home. I brought back an awesome set of wall shadows, while Francis brought back a massive stool, six masks, two elephants and three drums.

We were back in Legon under a blood-red moon around 7. I had the taxi driver drop me at Pizza Inn and Francis continued to our hostel.

Pizza was amazing. The beer with it was pretty good too. And I won a couple games of pool, which always makes the night better.


Wednesday, November 6th – Madina

Laziness. That’s all I can say. I think I stayed in bed – sleeping, reading or playing Hearts – until around 12:30. Finally, Francis and I found the motivation to move around 2:30. We went to the “Night Market,” which is a place where a lot of food vendors hang around.

By 4, we got a tro-tro to Madina. Francis needed to get some cloth to get some clothes made, and I decided that I was going to get a shirt made for myself. All I have are shorts and I figured I should bring at least one shirt back for me.

I bought some beautiful deep blue cloth, which will make for a very nice shirt, especially with the embroidery. Sandra does some amazing embroidery so I’m really looking forward to it.

About fifteen minutes after getting back to the hostel, our power went out. It's still Ghana


Thursday, December 7th

I stayed in bed for a good long time, in and out of sleep. I continued to read through “Things Fall Apart,” which is pretty good. Some of the names are difficult to pronounce; I could only imagine how much harder they would be had I not been reading and saying African names for the last four months.

Around 12:30, I headed to the university. I called Duncan to see if he wanted to grab some lunch. He told me that he and Francis were already at Babson’s, which is in the same area as Rich Love. Perfect. I walked back across the street and joined the two of them for lunch. Although it is no Rich Love, in my opinion, Babson’s is still pretty good.

After lunch, Duncan and I hit some internet for about half an hour. It wasn’t the internet that was so important; it was the drinking of very cold Pepsi that was. From the internet café, we headed toward Volta Hall. I put in an order for a very nice shirt with Sandra, our tailor. It should come out rather beautifully. A shirt like this would be very expensive in the States; here, it is costing me twenty dollars.

I really didn’t know what to do with the rest of my afternoon. I chilled out at the EAP office for a while, distracting people from doing their independent study projects and playing Hearts. I called Francis to see where he was on his return trip from Aburi and then ran into Duncan on the way back to Legon Hall.

While we waited for Francis to arrive, Duncan and I picked up a drum that he got made. He got it a couple days ago, but it had pink cloth around it, and he really wasn’t okay with that. The newer cloth is much nicer.

As we made our way back to Legon, I saw Nic hanging out outside of my room. He and Babs came back with Francis to bring all of Francis’s stuff back. Nic had finished the my last few carvings, which came out pretty amazingly. While they are not perfect (nothing is), I am very satisfied. He did a great job. I gave him a little money for his tro-tro ride back to Aburi.

Once Francis finished some business in Legon, we made our way back to our hostel. We stopped at the Night Market for dinner: rice balls, groundnut soup, and some beef skewers. It was all quite delicious and filling. I regret not going to this place earlier. The meals are cheap and good, and it’s not so far away.

The rest of the night was spent in the hostel. I repacked a bag, making sure that all of the carvings were surrounded by soft clothing. The last thing I want is for this stuff to break on the flight home. That would be so disappointing. My first bag is right around twenty-three kilos, which is the weight maximum per bag. Luckily, my other bag won’t be so heavy, so if I have to, I can move one or two kilos into the other bag.

Friday, December 8th

Before I went to bed last night, I made a couple lists: things I need to do, things I need to buy and their cost, and how my remaining days would be spent here. The list of things that I need to get done is getting smaller and smaller. The days left on this trip are such that I can count them on my fingers. While I know it is coming to an end, there has yet to be a major sense of finality.

Today’s mission was purchasing chocolate, and lots of it. I went into a store on campus and bought three boxes of chocolate – one for a gift and two for myself to distribute as I see fit. If I haven’t said it before, Ghanaian chocolate is really good. I don’t know what they do to it, but it is incredibly rich, and really can only be eaten in fairly small quantities. It’s going to be a real disappointment going back to Hershey’s when I get through all this chocolate.

For the better part of the afternoon, I spent my time listening to music, relaxing, and getting through the rest of “Things Fall Apart.” I really enjoyed this book. It illustrated very well the life of Africans before and after colonialism.

Saturday, December 9th

Today was one of those days that I just wanted to be done with. Not because anything bad happened, though. I just wanted today to be over so that I could say that I only have one more week here.

Most of what I wanted to get done today was scheduled for the evening. I had nothing to do for the better part of the day, so I decided to put a study guide for my Organization Theory class together. I got about half of it done and then Francis and I headed to the Night Market to get some lunch around 2.

I finished my study guide following lunch, and this pretty much led into the evening. Francis and I returned to the Night Market to get some dinner. We have become masters of hitching rides to campus so we don’t have to pay for a tro-tro or taxi. People are very nice for picking us up and we always express our gratitude.

The entertainment for the evening was a very cool concert put on by students from Ghana and the US, as well as a band from Burkina Faso. The Burkinabé band was very cool and the American performers (from Philadelphia and Memphis) also performed quite well. Our friend, DK, who lives on the fifth floor of Annex A performed some of his spoken word stuff which, quite honestly, sucks. Still, it was only 20,000 cedis – well worth my money.

Sunday, December 10th

I had the most difficult time falling asleep last night. My head was a Cineplex, with a different thought or memory or idea playing on every screen. And I had no power to turn off any of the screens. For hours, I couldn’t stop thinking, so I just rolled around in bed until 4 or 5 in the morning.

Thankfully, I had nothing of importance to do today. So I stayed in bed into the early afternoon. I still don’t feel very awake though. I had some crazy dreams last night, so the sleep I got wasn’t the greatest.

I had planned to go to Rich Love to try to buy some of her recipes around 1:30. I called Duncan to see if he wanted to meet me there, but he was working on his independent study paper. (Side note: I am so happy I am done with that thing.) He told me that he would be working until 3 on his paper and he would be willing to go around 3. I decided to hold out.

Rich Love, as always, was amazing, but today, it was even more amazing. We got a rare treat – green pepper sauce with shredded chicken. This was one of the recipes I wanted to get from her, but she wanted fifty dollars per recipe. Not only do I not have that kind of money, but I think I could figure out what was in her recipes without much effort.

Edith, the owner and chef of Rich Love, told me that she also had some business to talk about. She is considering opening a restaurant on campus and was looking for an investor. As much as I would like to help her, it is just too much of a risk. If I were in Ghana for the next two years, I would definitely do it, but being in America, there is just no way to track what was happening.

This meal put me in an incredible food coma. I am ready to fall asleep immediately. But I will hold out.

In the evening, a bunch of us had a very civilized wine party. I was in rare form. By the end of the evening, I was the most drunk I had been on the whole trip. The result was a not-so-fun evening, mostly on my hands and knees.

Thankfully, though, I did fall asleep very easily.


LDG

Saturday, December 02, 2006

Carvings and Controversy, AIDS and Aid

Tuesday, November 28th

I went to bed somewhat late last night. I wanted to get a little more studying done before I crashed. I think I fell asleep between 1 and 2. My final isn’t scheduled until 3:30 in the afternoon, so I was able to sleep in without losing too much studying time.

I finally woke up around 10, but lazed around in my pajamas and studied in bed for a while. Eventually, I found the strength to roll out of bed, and get some lunch.

When I walked out the door, Matt asked me, with his goofy smile on his face, “Have you seen the letter?” Oh no. Apparently, Francis and Ryan got into a significant verbal fight over Ryan smoking cigarettes in the hallway. The letter, which was a complete joke, grouped all of the EAP kids together, making all of us guilty for the “crimes” of a few. This really flamed a lot of us “white folk,” so instead of going to lunch, I pounded out a draft of a letter that we will post around the hall in the coming days.

After a bit of lunch and some more studying, I walked over to On the Run to use their lovely restroom. On the way there, I saw something I thought I would never see here – a pair of tornadoes. They were small – very small – but I saw both touch down, and then go back into the clouds.

At On the Run, I ran into Duncan and his mom, who chose to cash in on Two-Timer Tuesday earlier. I stayed for a couple minutes with them, but then had to get going. I had to take my final for Poli 305 – Government and Politics in Ghana This is the class that I haven’t attended for the last eleven weeks. In all, it was pretty easy. There was one minor section which I knew nothing about, but everything else, I had a pretty firm idea of what I was saying. I would be shocked if I got anything less than a B or B+ in that class, but I’m expecting a little higher than that.

I returned to continue working on this letter. This thing is going to put their letter to shame. So far, everyone seems okay with it. After some minor edits, I played some cards with Duncan. I’ve been dominating at Spar, but I don’t know if it’s because the cards are running lucky or if I’m just a better player. I’ll give Duncan the benefit of the doubt and say the cards are just coming my way right now.

Around 8:30, I went over to see some of the girls at Volta. Brianna and Isis – one of the girls involved in the accident – are going home tomorrow. It’s for the better that they go home. Being around family and a stable environment will help them a lot. I said my goodbyes after eating some pizza and watching a bit of “Mean Girls” (not my favorite movie).

The rest of the evening was dedicated to tying up a final version of this letter. I should be able to have it printed tomorrow. It should be very interesting to see what kind of response we get.

Wednesday, November 29th

If today can be characterized by one thing, it is the computer. But the reality is, despite sitting behind this machine for the majority of the day, it was still very productive.

My first priority was printing my independent study research paper. I am so glad to have that beast off of my hands. In the end, it was twenty-pages, including a couple pages of pictures. It isn’t perfect – no piece of written work is – but I think the bulk of the content is interesting and well-written.

Priority number two was the printing and the hanging of the obruni response letter to the block lord. Simply put, our letter refuted and rejected every single point that he made. As our good Ghanaian friend, Aziz, said, “You have definitely won the battle.” The proof is in the pudding; most Ghanaians agree with our letter and that idiot of a block lord decided to take all six copies down. He’s a coward, but it doesn’t really matter. The letter got forwarded to the Dean of Students, the Hall Master, the student body president and the Legon Hall president. When it comes down to it, our block lord’s credibility is wrecked; mission accomplished.

In the afternoon, my work continued on the computer. I started cropping some pictures of Ryan and Joe. The crowned jewel of our apartment in San Diego is going to be woodcarvings of our faces. There is something that is so funny – so preposterous – about getting a carving of your own face. How pompous are we? Needless to say, this will be amazing when it is all done.

The last computer mission was to send some pictures and some formatting to Eva, a very close family friend. She and her husband, Adam, might as well be family. Eva is formatting my blog pages into a book, which is very cool, and Adam is going to print it. I’m really excited for this. It’s going to be really cool to go back and read all of this years later.

With all of my work on the computer done, I started working toward tomorrow’s main objective – ordering the woodcarvings. I took the pictures of Joe, Ryan, and myself, put them into black and white, and pulled out the darkest of darks and the lightest of lights. What remained was a very accurate caricature. It will definitely make the job easier for Nic.

Thursday, November 30th

Today started very early, and by very early, I mean 1:10 AM. Craig Edelman, a UCSD grad who I introduced to Africa Aid last year, called me. He had sent me an email yesterday concerning the School Lunch Program, which has been non-existent. He was shocked and disappointed to learn that no progress was made here over the last seventeen weeks.

The call was good; I really needed to vent, and I didn’t care if I woke people up doing it. I expressed my complete displeasure and anger with Africa Aid. He, too, has been somewhat disappointed recently, and he understood my point very well. He asked me a perfect question: “If we sent money tomorrow, would Camp be ready?” Would they be ready? They’ve been ready for three months. I told him that if money were sent immediately, it would be put to use immediately.

After a fifty minute conversation, I went to bed.

I was told last night that Nic would be showing up sometime between 10 and 12, which was perfect. I knew he wouldn’t be showing at 10; it’s very un-Ghanaian to show up at the beginning of a time slot.

Nic arrived at 11:30. Quite frankly, I was surprised that he hit the time slot at all, but I will give credit where credit is due. I put in my order for the three faces and a set of wall shadows, which is this really cool set of twelve or fourteen figures. I saw them when I went to Aburi a few weeks back, and really liked them. I wasn’t going to get any, but the fact that it kept rattling around in my head must have meant something.

I bargained hard, and ended up getting the three faces, plus the set of wall shadows for 230,000 cedis (25 dollars) and a set of beat-up shoes that I would be leaving here anyway. It is a lot of work, and the faces won’t be easy, so I don’t mind paying a good chunk of money for them. It’s well worth it.

Francis and Duncan also put in some orders. Francis ordered a whole slew of things and Duncan ordered a couple more masks. After this, Duncan and I played some Spar. The cards have swung his way, and he is starting to beat me up a bit.

Duncan and I made our way over to Volta Hall. He had some things to pick up from Sandra the Tailor, and I had to drop of my laundry with the guy behind the hall who has a machine. Everything was fine, except one thing – the power was out, which meant no laundry. A bummer, sure, but not a big deal. The big thing is that I walked over with these buckets of clothes and didn’t want to waste my trip down the four flights of stairs. I met Duncan at Sandra’s to buy some scraps of cloth for a friend. This, I think, is my final piece of business with Sandra. I have everything I want and, honestly, I can’t afford to buy any more clothing.

After hauling my clothes back up the Legon Hall stairs, Duncan and I went over to Chicken Inn, which is right next to Bonjour (formerly known as On the Run). Both of us were hungry – we each got hamburgers, which is a treat – and both of us needed to use there facilities. My trips for meals, sadly, revolve around when I have to use the restroom. Considering the state of the bathrooms – the toilets have been flushed once in the last three weeks and we know have mushrooms growing in the urine trough – you can understand why I will literally walk a mile to use a clean restroom.

On the way to Chicken Inn, I received a piece of great news: Africa Aid has decided to send a thousand dollars to the refugee camp immediately. Thank God. This trip has been amazing but this is truly the cherry on top. While it is not perfect, it is something. I am so glad that I’ll be around to see this program get officially put into place. I’ve worked two years to see this happen, and now, it’s so close to happening. Even though I told Jeremiah that I wouldn’t be returning to camp because the lack of need to go there, I have reason to return now.

From Chicken Inn, we went to the Performing Arts Center, where Duncan picked up a pair of really sick drums which come from Northern Ghana. They have a distinctly different sound than the Southern drums.

Prior to some meeting we had to attend, a thief was caught stealing a cell phone right outside of Annex A. In a place were so many have so little, thievery is simply not tolerated. Typically, a thief would receive the Ghanaian justice of “pounding and ponding” – a beating and either being thrown into a pond or having water thrown at them, which hurts, bruises and scars. This particular thief got slapped in the head a couple of times and then was taken to the police station. What seemed like a riot settled very quickly.

At 5:30, we had an “emergency meeting” with Professor John Marcum, the UC-wide Director of EAP. Without being told, we knew the meeting would revolve around last week’s accident. What it turned into, at least the way I heard it, was a complete ripping of EAP and the program. At the same time, though, everyone stressed that the program should not be cancelled – it just needed to be changed in important ways. I don’t think the meeting was particularly productive in terms of finding solutions to the problems. It wasn’t a complete waste of time, but it wasn’t a particularly effective use of time either.

By the end of the meeting, the electricity had returned, so Duncan and I made our way up to the internet café to check emails and load pictures.

We ended the night by shooting a couple of games of pool.

Friday, December 1st

I can’t believe it’s December. I remember looking at the calendar when we first arrived and I thought, “We need to get through four months and then we’ll be close to going home.” Well, now we’re close to going home. I also recall saying to people that once we hit November, the rest of the time will fly. I really don’t know where November went. It was like a blink.

The bed was feeling particularly comfortable this morning. It’s really hard to find the motivation to get out of bed when I know I have no class and no exams for the next eleven days. But there were still things to get done.

I walked over to Volta to make sure that the laundry man was there. This is only the second time that I will be having my laundry done, and I’m only getting it done by someone now because I ran out of Woolite. He told me that my laundry – twelve shirts, a pair of shorts and five pairs of pants – would cost me 30,000 cedis. Not too bad, especially since it is machine washed.

From Volta, I made my way to Western Union to pick up some money. In the wake of losing my ATM card, Western Union has been a savior. The power of technology is such that someone can send money online to a place and it can be picked up almost instantly.

Duncan and I grabbed some French bread Pizza at Pizza Inn, then headed to the EAP office to have one-on-one meetings with Professor Marcum. I gave a few recommendations on how EAP can be improved, but stressed the importance of keeping the program here, a question which he had raised last night. Simply put, there are lessons to be learned here that can’t be taken out of any book or learned in any classroom; these are the lessons that are priceless. I also had a small meeting with Auntie Irene, bringing up the same issues that I brought up with Professor Marcum.

I returned to Volta to drop off my laundry, and on the way back, filled up a bucket with water. We’ve had running water once since I’ve been back from Egypt, and according to people here, there was no running water during the time I was in Egypt. That means our toilets have been flushed once in the last three weeks. I don’t need to post any pictures for you to imagine the disaster that is our restroom.

I received more good news from AfricaAid: a thousand dollars was sent today to the refugee camp and was picked up by Jeremiah. I will make my way out to Camp tomorrow morning to discuss the issues and to ensure that everything is going okay on Camp.
For the evening, most of EAP showed up for a traditional African funeral for Brenna. Like I’ve said in posts prior, African funerals take on a much different tone than American funerals. The night was full of dancing and singing, much like our first week here. And yes, as with any African funeral, there was plenty of akpoteshie to go around.

After a beer at Bush Canteen, Duncan and I headed to Rich Love for some late-night dinner. We downed a fantastic 20,000 bowl of rice, chicken and tomato-pepper sauce, and turned in for the night.
One more note: today is World AIDS Day. Africa, more than any other place in the world, is hurt by AIDS. There are currently 25 million people in Africa who have AIDS; many will not receive proper, if any support. Further, there are more than 10 million children who are orphaned because their parents died from AIDS. So today, I recommend a couple of things. Firstly, take some time to learn how dire the situation is here. I highly recommend watching the movie “Yesterday.” It was a film produced by HBO and it does an incredible job of showing the issues of AIDS in Africa. Secondly, I encourage everyone to find something to contribute to the cause. Recently, I purchased a (RED) campaign phone; a portion of the funds go to the Global Fund, which works to put an end to Tuberculosis, Malaria and AIDS. In one way or another, find a way to give to this cause. Too many people are affected by a disease that is preventable and treatable.

Saturday, December 2nd

I will admit this – it is hard to have a perfect day in Ghana. Usually, something manages to go wrong, whether it be a tro-tro breaking down, or whatever it is. Something usually doesn’t go to plan. But I can honestly say that today was a perfect day in Ghana.

I woke up on the early side and made my way out to Buduburam. I was incredibly excited for this meeting. The wheels of our school lunch program were finally in motion.

I arrived early, and Jeremiah meet me at SHIFSD at 10 AM sharp, as planned. We waited a bit of time for Mr. Zakama, who oversees the program. By 10:20, our meeting was underway.

The meeting went absolutely perfectly. We discussed how to cut some items out of the budget and how to maximize the money that would be coming in from AfricaAid. We reinforced the fact that they were completely in charge of how money got distributed toward food. After all, Americans should not be deciding what Liberians should be eating. But most importantly, we started bouncing around the idea of building a kitchen specifically for SHIFSD. After an initial assessment in San Diego months ago, we threw that idea out the window. But the fact is that it makes much more economic sense to have their own kitchen. Plus, in having their own kitchen, SHIFSD can bring in parents of the children to do the cooking. The distribution of money would spread even further.

This was probably my last meeting at Buduburam While the end result is good, I can’t even begin to express how underutilized I feel by the non-profit. It’s not everyday that a San Diego non-profit will have someone in Africa at their whim for five months. I feel like they wasted me as an asset, but it’s their loss.

I will say, though, that seeing all of this happen has really been the cherry on top of this trip. I thought that the Lunch Program was a lost cause, but now, it’s like a child growing up in front of my eyes. I am so gratified by seeing all of this happen.

On the way back to Legon, I stopped at Circle to pick up a couple of items: a Michael Essien jersey for a friend and a Ghanaian flag for me. I actually got pretty reasonable prices. The two together cost less than twenty dollars, so I can’t complain.

Once I got back in Legon, I started putting together some emails and documents that would be important for the success of the school lunch program. I also picked up my laundry from Volta. This was probably the last load of laundry here – just another realization that this trip is winding down. Oh, and the guy lost one of my shirts. There goes my perfect day, but still, nothing is taking me down off this high.

LDG

BH