Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Small Travel and BIG Travel

Friday, October 27th – Aburi

Thirteen weeks into this adventure, I finally made it out to Aburi (uh-burr-ee), one of the better woodcarving villages in Ghana. It is also the home of Rita Marley, widow of Bob Marley, who is an honorary queen mother for the town. Aburi also has a pretty cool botanical garden, which I wasn’t able to go to on this trip. My roommate Francis goes there on a regular basis because he is learning how to carve.

This trip had one mission: to get a wood carving done for my friend Agustina. If it is done right – and I suspect that it will – it will be beautiful.

The ride to Aburi is easy. Tro-tro from Legon to Zongo Station, which is near Madina, then from Zongo to Aburi. It doesn’t take more than an hour, and it’s all on paved roads. After slightly overshooting the village, we arrived via taxi to the carving/arts center. It is a very cool little area, nearly a village in itself. Just about every possible woodcarving can be found – profiles of people, masks, unities, and some phallic symbols. I put in my order with Nicholas, who is the person teaching Francis. Duncan also put an order in – a very cool picture based off of a shirt from the radio station he works for at Cal. Both carvings should be done in less than two weeks. Duncan also bought a pretty sick “amateur work” mask. Still looks pretty sweet.

I didn’t really do much for the rest of the day. I was pleased to learn that USC lost. I’m sick of Trojan football. That made me pretty happy.

The night got even better when Duncan, AJ, Will and I went to JazzTone. Will played some unbelievable trumpet with a band behind him. Will is one of those people who, like my dad, can jump into a band and fit in perfectly. But Will didn’t just fit in – he was by far the best musician on stage. He’s really good. I enjoyed the music over a nice glass of shiraz, the first wine I’ve had in a long time.

While he played, AJ and I worked on a fundraiser which will benefit a student with Leukemia. The fundraiser is an “obruni auction.” 6-8 obrunis will be auctioned off for dates, with the money going toward chemotherapy for the student. The planning was easy; the execution, I hope, will go as easily.

Saturday, October 28th – Madina, twice

Duncan and I began our second mission of the weekend by going to Madina Market. Madina’s market reminded me a lot of Takoradi’s market: a little panicked on the outside, but well organized on the inside.

We made our way into the cloth section of the market, which was fairly large – small shop after small shop. It’s the kind of area where everyone knows everyone, so you won’t get a terribly bad price, but at the same time, there isn’t a whole lot of room for bargaining. The prices were pretty much set and standard from shop to shop. I bought a ton of cloth – seven 2-yard pieces – for myself and for others. One of the things I have found is that shopping for people is really hard because the stuff is so cool that I want to keep it for myself. But I also don’t want to buy things that aren’t of top quality or that I wouldn’t keep for myself. I will part ways with them, nonetheless. Duncan had rehearsal for a play he is in, so we rushed through the market.

I didn’t do much for the afternoon. I was actually feeling a little drowsy. It’s been so hot of recent, and I’m clearly not drinking enough water, no matter how hard I try.

After some dinner at Tyme Out, Duncan and I headed back to Madina to go to his friend Godwin Kotay’s poolbar. Not to be harsh, but the word “disappointment” is an overstatement. There wasn’t much pool – one crap undersized table – and there wasn’t much of a bar – a few warm Guinnesses. I determined that there was no amount of alcohol I could drink that would make this place better, so I didn’t drink (Duncan had a couple). I played really horribly. I’ve been off my game recently, mostly being just okay enough to win. Tonight though, I took a beating a couple times by a pretty good player, so I’m not too upset. Needless to say, though, we won’t be returning to that garbage can of a “pool bar”

Sunday, October 29th – Sunday Shutdown

It always amazes me how dead this place becomes on Sundays. Everybody – except for us non-religious hedons – is in church. Duncan and I dashed to On-the-Run, where we had brunch. We split a chocolate pastry, which was rather amazing, and I got a somewhat disappointing, yet sufficient, cheeseburger.

The rest of the day was really slow. We planned on hitting some internet, but it wouldn’t open until at least 1:30, because of church. We waited around, playing cards, reading Sports Illustrated (which Duncan’s dad brought with him, per my request). Then it started to downpour. It was a muggy day, and we could sense that rains were imminent. We waited until around 4, when the rains finally subsided, and hit the internet café to upload some pictures.

Like the sun over the vast African sky, the rest of the day just dragged along. The heat is really starting to get to me. I just felt shot by the end of the day.

Monday, October 30th – Big Travel on the Way

Morocco. Egypt. This could be an absolutely epic trip. I’ve decided against drawing up some elaborate scheme to keep my finals schedule – elaborate and Ghana don’t work well together. So I decided that I’m just going to blow off my last week of classes. The truth is that I wont be missing much. One class I never go to, one class will be asaa before that week, and the other two, I have obruni friends from whom I can get notes. I returned toward Circle to JourneyMax Executive Travel to plan out this magical week.

Everything was in order. Flights and dates were laid out perfectly. I pulled out my Visa, which drew a blank face on the agent. “I don’t know of Royal Air Maroc” takes Visa.” What? Head, desk, thud. So disappointing. They told me to go to their offices, at the Silver Star Tower, which was no problem. No problem except that they hadn’t moved into their offices. It doesn’t really matter. The agency told me I can pay in US dollars or Ghanaian cedis. I plan on paying in cedis, just so I can hold onto 6.5 million cedis at once.

I spent the rest of the afternoon dealing with UCSD stuff. Finances, classes, etc. I had two major stresses – language requirement and tuition – vastly reduced, for now.

I grabbed some small-small snack, and waiting to dine with Duncan at the great hour of 10:30. Should be fun sleeping on this stomach.

Pre-Halloween, Tuesday, October 31st

One mission: get the ticket to Egypt. One way or another, I needed to come up with 675 dollars worth of currency; whether it was in cedis or American dollars didn’t matter. For most of the morning, I ran around to different branches of Barclays, trying to find one that would let me take out some 6.5 million cedis; no one would. The morning wasn’t a complete loss though. I was able to buy a couple of gifts for people, so the trip was worth it.

So I started hitting ATMs when I got back to campus. I pulled out some 3 million cedis, gathered 400 dollars from my room, grabbed some lunch, and I headed back to the travel agency.

The tro-tro ride to Circle was one of the most nerve-wracking trips I’ve ever had, anywhere. I had 700 dollars in currency sitting in my backpack. By the way, 700 dollars is more than some Ghanaians make over 2 years. I felt like one of those people in New York City who walk around with briefcases handcuffed to them. I held on for dear life.

Walking over from the tro-tro station, I was moving so quickly and so thoughtlessly that I stubbed my toe and gave myself a huge blood blister. It’s okay, though. Nothing is going to take me off this high.

Overnight, the price of the ticket dropped a full two dollars – woo! – down to 673. I slowly handed over the money to Henry, my superstar travel agent. By 3:00, everything was settled. I had my ticket to Egypt. AAAAAAAHHHH!!!

My itinerary goes as follows: Accra to Casablanca, Morocco on 14 November. 12 hour lay over in Casablanca – just enough time to adventure around. Redeye from Casablanca to Cairo. In Cairo for 7 days. Depart Cairo on the 21 November. 12 hours layover in Casablanca. Redeye from Casablanca to Accra, arriving on the 23rd. So stoked.

In the early evening, Nicholas, my main man from Aburi, came by with the carving for Agustina. Beautiful does not do this thing justice. It’s perfect, and he’ll be adding stain to it this week. It's so much more than I expected. It's gorgeous.

Uhh, Halloween is tonight. I’ll be drunk. Have a good one.

LDG

Monday, October 30, 2006

Child Labor in Ghana -- New York Times

I'm posting this article from the New York Times mostly because I think its necessary. Child labor is a part of everyday life here in Ghana and many other countries in Sub-Saharan Africa. It is a sad reality. I encourage you to read the article below.


Africa's World of Forced Labor, in a 6-Year-Old's Eyes
Sharon LaFraniere
New York Times
29 October 2006

KRACHI, Ghana — Just before 5 a.m., with the sky still dark over Lake Volta, Mark Kwadwo was rousted from his spot on the damp dirt floor. It was time for work.

Shivering in the predawn chill, he helped paddle a canoe a mile out from shore. For five more hours, as his coworkers yanked up a fishing net, inch by inch, Mark bailed water to keep the canoe from swamping.

He last ate the day before. His broken wooden paddle was so heavy he could barely lift it. But he raptly followed each command from Kwadwo Takyi, the powerfully built 31-year-old in the back of the canoe who freely deals out beatings.

“I don’t like it here,” he whispered, out of Mr. Takyi’s earshot.

Mark Kwadwo is 6 years old. About 30 pounds, dressed in a pair of blue and red underpants and a Little Mermaid T-shirt, he looks more like an oversized toddler than a boat hand. He is too little to understand why he has wound up in this fishing village, a two-day trek from his home.

But the three older boys who work with him know why. Like Mark, they are indentured servants, leased by their parents to Mr. Takyi for as little as $20 a year.

Until their servitude ends in three or four years, they are as trapped as the fish in their nets, forced to work up to 14 hours a day, seven days a week, in a trade that even adult fishermen here call punishing and, at times, dangerous.

Mr. Takyi’s boys — conscripts in a miniature labor camp, deprived of schooling, basic necessities and freedom — are part of a vast traffic in children that supports West and Central African fisheries, quarries, cocoa and rice plantations and street markets. The girls are domestic servants, bread bakers, prostitutes. The boys are field workers, cart pushers, scavengers in abandoned gem and gold mines.

By no means is the child trafficking trade uniquely African. Children are forced to race camels in the Middle East, weave carpets in India and fill brothels all over the developing world.

The International Labor Organization, a United Nations agency, estimates that 1.2 million are sold into servitude every year in an illicit trade that generates as much as $10 billion annually.

Studies show they are most vulnerable in Asia, Latin America and Africa.

Africa’s children, the world’s poorest, account for roughly one-sixth of the trade, according to the labor organization. Data is notoriously scarce, but it suggests victimization of African children on a huge scale.

A 2002 study supervised by the labor organization estimated that nearly 12,000 trafficked children toiled in the cocoa fields of Ivory Coast alone. The children, who had no relatives in the area, cleared fields with machetes, applied pesticides and sliced open cocoa pods for beans.

In an analysis in February, Unicef says child trafficking is growing in West and Central Africa, driven by huge profits and partly controlled by organized networks that transport children both within and between countries.

“We know it is a huge problem in Africa,” said Pamela Shifman, a child protection officer at the New York headquarters of Unicef. “A lot of it is visible. You see the kids being exploited. You watch it happen. Somebody brought the kids to the place where they are. Somebody exploited their vulnerability.”

Otherwise, she asked, “How did they get there?”

John R. Miller, the director of the State Department Office to Monitor and Combat Trafficking in Persons, said the term trafficking failed to convey the brutality of what was occurring.

“A child does not consent,” he said. “The loss of choice, the deception, the use of frauds, the keeping of someone at work with little or no pay, the threats if they leave — it is slavery.”

Some West African families see it more as a survival strategy. In a region where nearly two-thirds of the population lives on less than $1 a day, the compensation for the temporary loss of a child keeps the rest of the family from going hungry. Some parents argue that their children are better off learning a trade than starving at home.

Indeed, the notion that children should be in the care of their parents is not a given in much of African society.

Parents frequently hand off children to even distant relatives if it appears they will have a chance at education and more opportunity.

Only in the past six years or so has it become clear how traffickers take advantage of this custom to buy and sell children, sometimes with no more ceremony than a goat deal.

In 2001, 35 children, half of them under age 15, were discovered aboard a vessel in a Benin port. They said they were being shipped to Gabon to work.

In 2003, Nigerian police rescued 194 malnourished children from stone quarries north of Lagos. At least 13 other children had died and been buried near the pits, the police said.

Last year, Nigerian police stumbled upon 64 girls aged 14 and younger, packed inside a refrigerated truck built to haul frozen fish. They had traveled hundreds of miles from central Nigeria, the police said, and were destined for work as housemaids in Lagos.

In response to such reports, African nations have passed a raft of legislation against trafficking, adopting or strengthening a dozen laws last year alone.

There were nearly 200 prosecutions of traffickers on the continent last year, four times as many as in 2003, according to the State Department’s trafficking office.

Some countries are encouraging villages to form their own surveillance committees. In Burkina Faso, the government reported, such committees, together with the police, freed 644 children from traffickers in 2003. Still, government officials in the region say, only a tiny fraction of victims are detected.

Ghana, an Oregon-size nation of 21 million people, has yet to prosecute anyone under the new antitrafficking law it adopted last December. But the government has taken other steps — including eliminating school fees that forced youngsters out of classrooms, increasing birth registrations so that children have legal identities and extending small loans to about 1,200 mothers to give them alternatives to leasing out their children.

The International Organization for Migration, an intergovernmental agency set up after World War II to help refugees, has also mounted a United States-financed program to rescue children from the fishing industry.

Since 2003, the organization says, 587 children have been freed from Ghana’s Lake Volta region, taken to shelters for counseling and medical treatment, then reunited with parents or relatives.

“We sign a social contract with the fishermen,” said Eric Peasah, the agency’s Ghana field representative. “If they have 10 children, we say, ‘Release four, and you can’t get more, or you will be prosecuted.’ Once they sign that, we come back and say we want to release more.”

To reduce child trafficking significantly, said Marilyn Amponsah Annan, who is in charge of children’s issues for the Ghanaian government, adults must be convinced that children have the right to be educated, to be protected, and to be spared adult burdens — in short, the right to a childhood.

“You see so many children with so many fishermen,” she said. “Those little hands, those little bodies. It is always very sad, because this is the world of adults.

“We have to educate these communities because they do not know any other way of existence. They believe this is what they need to do to survive.”

That is the fishermen’s favorite defense in Kete Krachi, a day’s drive through dense forests from Ghana’s capital, Accra. For the area’s roughly 9,000 residents, fishing is their lifeblood. Children keep it going.

Nearly every canoe here holds at least a few of them, some no older than 5 or 6, often supervised by a teenager. A dozen boys, interviewed in their canoes or as they sewed up ratty nets ashore, spoke of backbreaking toil, 100-hour workweeks and frequent beatings. They bore a pervasive fear of diving into the lake’s murky waters to free a tangled net, and never resurfacing.

One 10-year-old said he was sometimes so exhausted that he fell asleep as he paddled. Asked when he rested, another boy paused from his net mending, seemingly confused. “This is what you see now,” he said.

They never see the pittance they earn. The fishermen say they pay parents or relatives each December, typically on trips to the families’ villages during the December holidays.

The children’s sole comfort seems to be the shared nature of their misery, a camaraderie of lost boys who have not seen their families in years, have no say in their fate and, in some cases, were lured by false promises of schooling or a quick homecoming.

On Nkomi, a grassy island in the lake, Kwasi Tweranim, in his mid to late teens, and Kwadwo Seaako, perhaps 12 or 13, seemed united by fear and resentment of their boss. Both bear inchlong scars on their scalps where, they said, he struck them with a wooden paddle.

“I went down to disentangle the net, and when I came up, my master said that I had left part of it down there,” Kwasi said. “Then I saw black, and woke up in another boat. Only the grace of God saved me.”

Kwadwo, stammering badly, said he had been punished when the net rolled in the water.

Not every fisherman is so pitiless. Christian Lissah employs eight children under 13, mostly distant relatives. He said he knew many children who were treated no better than workhorses, and some who had drowned.

“In general, this is not a good practice because people mishandle the children,” he said. Yet he said he could not imagine how he would fish profitably without child workers, and depends on friends and acquaintances to keep him supplied — for a commission.

“You must get people who are a very low background who need money,” he said. “Some of them are eager to release their children.”

Mark Kwadwo’s parents, Joe Obrenu and his wife, Ama, were an easy sell. Mr. Obrenu fished the seas off Aboadzi, a hilly, sun-drenched town on the Gulf of Guinea, and his wife dried the catch for sale. But the two often ran short of food, said Mark’s aunt, Adwoa Awotwe. Over the years, they sold five of their children into labor, she said, including Mark’s 9-year-old sister Hagar, who performs domestic chores for Mr. Takyi.

Mr. Obrenu drummed up other recruits from neighbors, sometimes to their lasting regret. “It was hunger, to get a little money; the whole today, I have not eaten,” said Efua Mansah, whose 7-year-old son, Kwabena, boarded a small blue bus with Mr. Takyi four years ago for the 250-mile trip to Kete Krachi.

She has seen him only twice since then. In all that time, Mr. Takyi has paid her $66, she said, a third of which she spent on buses and ferries to pick up the money.

In her one-room hut decorated with empty plastic bottles, she forced back tears. “I want to bring my son home,” she said.

Mark also cried when his turn to leave came this year, his aunt said, so his mother told him that Mr. Takyi would take him to his father. Instead, he was brought to Mr. Takyi’s compound of caked mud huts, to a dark six-foot-square cubicle with a single tiny window. He shares it with five other children, buzzing flies and a few buckets of fish bait.

In two days, a smile never creased Mark’s delicate features. He seldom offered more than a nod or a shake of the head, with a few telling exceptions: “I was beaten in the house. I can’t remember what I did, but he caned me,” he said of Mr. Takyi.

Mr. Takyi, who sleeps and works in the same gray T-shirt, is disarmingly frank about his household. He can afford to feed the children only twice a day, he said, and cannot clothe them adequately. He himself has been paddling the lake since age 8.

“I can understand how the children feel,” he said. “Because I didn’t go to school, this is work I must do. I also find it difficult.”

Yet he does not hesitate to break a branch from the nearest tree to wake the boys for the midnight shift.

“Almost all the boys are very troublesome,” he complained. “I want them to be humble children, but they don’t obey my orders.”

One recent morning, his young crew, wrapped in thin bedsheets for warmth, hiked in the darkness down to the shore.

They paddled out in two leaky but stable canoes, searching the water for a piece of foam that marked where their net was snagged on submerged tree stumps. Kwabena, 11, stripped off his cutoff shorts and dived in with an 18-year-old to free it, yanking it at one point with his teeth.

Mark has not mastered the rhythm of paddling. Mr. Takyi said the boy cries when the water is rough or he is cold. He cannot swim a stroke. If the canoe capsizes, Mr. Takyi said, he will save him.

“I can’t pay what is asked for older boys,” Mr. Takyi said, as Mark bailed out the canoe with the sawed-off bottom of a plastic cooking oil container. “That is why I go for this. When I get money, I go to get another one.”

In the other canoe, Kwame Akuban and Kofi Quarshie plucked fish from the net with the air of prisoners waiting for their terms to end.

Kofi, 10, said his mother had told him his earnings would feed their family. But he suspects another motive. “They didn’t like me,” he said softly.

Kwame, 12, said his parents had promised to retrieve him in a year’s time and send him to school.

“I have been here three years and I am not going home, and I am not happy,” he said quietly.

As if on cue, Mr. Takyi shouted: “Remove the fish faster, or I will cane you.”

Running away is a common fantasy among the boys. Kofi Nyankom, who came from Mark’s hometown three years ago, at age 9, was one of the few to actually try it.

Last December, he ran to town half-naked, his back a mass of bruises. He said Mr. Takyi had tied him up and whipped him.

George Achibra, a school district official, demanded that the police intervene, and Mr. Takyi was forced to let Kofi go.

But before many weeks passed, he had brought in a replacement — younger, more helpless, more submissive. It was Mark Kwadwo.

Saturday, October 28, 2006

Back in an English-Speaking Country

Evening, Monday October 23

Back from Togo, I scarffed down the baguettes that I brought back, hoping it would be enough to hold me over until Rich Love tonight. Duncan, his dad – who arrived in Ghana a few days prior – a late-arriving Lily (aka AJ) and I destroyed a 30,000 cedi bowl of food. We then moved briskly to On-the-Run to get some beers – a brief pre-game for our night.

While drinking, I played a couple games of pool, winning each game, and eventually giving the table up to the last person. We had plans for the rest of the night.

I slammed a rather large beer on the cab ride over to JazzTones, a very cool, American-owned place with live music. The four of us – especially Duncan and I – each enjoyed our drinks, which included a double Baileys, a rum and orange juice, and a kamikaze, which absolutely destroyed me. The conversation was easy going and the music – just a pianist – wasn’t half-bad.

I was going to need a recovery day, for sure.

Tuesday October 24

Being back in Legon was relaxing to say the least. It was nice just to be able to sit around and do nothing, regardless of the water situation. I slept in, and for the most part did a whole lot of nothing. Duncan, his dad, and I had lunch at TacoBell, where the shredded beef sauce, their best dish in my opinion was asaa, so we settled for rice and chicken. Nothing special.

The rest of the afternoon was just a whole bunch of nothing and waiting until Pizza Tuesday. The pizza was mediocre – thick crust was asaa – but it didn’t really matter. I was busy shooting pool, which I’m not so bad at. I won 5 out 6 games and eventually gave up the table.

The better part of the evening was devoted to an absolutely hysterical conference call between myself, and my two best friends, Joe and Ryan. Just as the webcam has helped “keep my parents sanity,” as my dad would say, Skype has definitely helped keep my sanity. Being able to keep in touch with my family and friends has made this trip so much easier. It was a beautiful thing to be able to laugh with my friends. It was one of those nights that made me realize how grateful I am to have them as friends and how much I’m looking forward to living with them in a few months.

After being forced to bring the conversation to an end – the internet server went down – I joined Duncan and his dad at The Neighborhood, a very cool little pool bar (are you noticing a trend?). We shut the place down, and I didn’t have to pay for a game because, well, I kept winning – haha.

Duncan went back to the hotel with his dad and I returned to a powerless Legon Hall. It didn’t really matter – I fell asleep pretty quickly.

Wednesday October 25

Panic. Total Panic. The big deal was that there was an apartment, seemingly open. It is a spectacular place in La Jolla. I called the person in charge of leasing to try to get the ball rolling. It seemed that everything was fine after my conversation with the person, but things changed once she started talking to my mom.

I called Ryan, and magically, Joe got online prior to going to the AS Roma football game. We had a three way conversation about the housing situation while we had a five-way AIM conversation between the three of us, Joe’s mom and my mom.

In the end, it was all for naught. They would not hold the apartment until December 15. Bummer, but not a big deal. It’s a very interesting experience trying to find housing when you’re 8,000 miles from home. Luckily we have plenty have helpers. 7 people, in 4 countries are all working hard to ensure that Joe, Ryan and I will have a great place to live.

Other than that, a very mundane Legon day.

Thursday, October 26

Class. Blah Blah. Nothing really interesting in class. It goes by so slowly. After class, I had to meet with my project advisor. He told me that he would have corrections on my paper today, but when I walked in he was caught by surprise. Clearly, no reading of my paper was done. I’ll just wait until next week.

From Legon, I took a tro-tro down to Circle, on a mission to find airfare for Egypt. After 8 or 9 different travel agency gave me a relatively similar price, I found one that was 80 dollars cheaper, with layovers in Casablanca, Morocco. Wooo! The trouble is that it is during my examinations weeks, and while I am scheduled not to have finals during those days, anything can – and usually does. Currently, I am devising a sneaky plan to ensure I can take my finals as scheduled, regardless of the times being changed.

Upon return, Duncan, his dad, and I went to Rich Love for some outrageous food, the Lee and Duncan special – rice, chicken, grilled pineapple, onions, tomato and pepper sauce. This would be Duncan’s dad’s last meal in Ghana, so we sent him off in style. While eating, a young man selling belts walked through the restaurant. I really needed a new belt – the first one I bought here is now too big on me. He showed my this beautiful, black belt, which I wanted. I told him that I would “bring 10,000 cedis” He wanted 45,000. Please. I told him I would bring 10,000 and he dropped his price to 25,000. I told him I would bring 10,000. This really pissed off these two ladies eating at Rich Love, and they starting bargaining on behalf of the salesman’s behalf. “Bring 15. Bring 18. Give him a fair price.” I gave him 20,000, 2 dollars and change, for the belt. I’m very happy with my purchase.

On the way back, we jumped into the small campus market so Duncan could buy some akpoteshie. We are legally allowed to bring a certain amount back, so Duncan asked his dad to take a liter and a half back with him. We pounded some water, so he would have a bottle to take it home. 30,000 cedis later, Duncan had some fine akpoteshie. That stuff is something like 80,000 alcohol and probably blinds 1 out of every 10 people – haha.

Walking back to the room, I gave my old belt to some random guy, who seemed very happy to have a new belt.

The evening started slowly, until I got a call from AJ. I had forgotten that she was going to cook dinner for some of her obruni friends. She made delicious groundnut (peanut) soup with beef and rice balls. Dinner was followed by fresh smoothies, made with just-sliced pineapples, oranges, bananas and grape juice. So good. I was very much full.

I thought I was I for a relaxing evening. But I got myself into a very heavy conversation about homosexuality. It is something that is really frowned upon by Ghanaians, who, as I’ve stated in the past, are very Christian. The one Ghanaian was surrounded by seven liberal Californians, so it made for quite the battle. Eventually, it just came down to Alfred and me. After telling me that homosexuality was a “disease,” I asked him to find me one physical consequence that was exclusive to gay people. He has seven weeks to find one (which he insists he will find immediately). I told him that if he does find one, I will join him on his mission to try to change gay people to become straight. That’s how confident I am in winning this battle. I think I did open his mind a bit, and we’ll see what he learns. Hopefully, he will be able to put aside his bias – which is tough to do – and maybe look at things differently.

The next couple days should be interesting. On tap for the next couple days: Aburi, which is known for its woodcarving, Madina, which has a great market for cloth, and the refugee camp.

LDG

Tuesday, October 24, 2006

Pictures -- Togo

Okay, here are my pictures from Togo. I tried to break them up a bit so you don't get lost in the monotony of blue type-face.
Enjoy
LDG

Bye-bye Ghana. Hello Togo

Around Town
ECOWAS building 1
ECOWAS building 2
Hungry Hippos
See no evil...
Drummer man
Ewe mask
The chic cafe
Espresso -- yum
Place de L'Independance
Closer
Even closer
Who plays basketball in Togo?
The wall around the presidential building
Cool woodcarvings
On the beach
So nice
Grande Marche
Panic in the streets of the Grande Marche

The Cathedral
The outside of the cathedral
Front of the cathedral
One side
Toward the front
More stuff in the cathedral
Joe, our friend Gilbert, and me
Give me your money
Beautiful stained glass

Marche des Feticheurs
Monkey skulls
Dog heads
A gorilla skull in my hands
Fetish priest
A skull of a large animal
I see you...
More cool fetish stuff
My voodoo dolls

Food
Our little croissanterie
Pastries
Kill it, Dev, killk it!
Meat, bread, french fries. so good.
Bread!
Street-side pastries

Cloth
For my Dad
For Joseph, my sweet Joseph

Monday, October 23, 2006

Togo to Go

Friday 20 October – Roaming Lomé

Joe and I made our way out of Legon, on our way to Lomé (low-may), Togo, which is quite literally on the Ghana-Togo border. The tro-tro rides were smooth, taking just about three hours to get from the capital of Ghana to the capital of Togo. The road for about half of it was paved perfectly, which was quite a surprise.

Immigration went perfectly, no problems. Stamped out of Aflao, Ghana and into Lomé, Togo. A couple of difference were noticeable as soon as we crossed the border:

  • The currency used was not the cedi, but the CFA – the West African Franc. 1 US Dollar = 500 CFA = 9250 cedi.
  • The language spoken is predominately French, with some Ewe (eh-vay), a local language.
  • The cloth is not as bright, but still very nice
  • The women were not as beautiful, but still very nice
  • Baguette is so much better than crappy Ghana bread
  • The main mode of mass transportation is moto, not tro-tro
  • There is no open sewage in Lomé

We grabbed a taxi for 1500 CFA and decided it would be the last taxi we took. Three dollars for 5 kilometres is a ripoff. But we got to our hotel – Hotel Boulevard (say it with a dirty French accent. In fact, say all the French words with a dirty French accent) – and settled in.

Our first stop, naturally, was a bank, where I could use my Visa to get CFA’s. What Visa says is true – it really is everywhere you want to be. Conveniently, the bank was right next to the ECOWAS building. ECOWAS – the Economic Community of West African States – is the NAFTA for West Africa, and apparently, its headquarters is in Lomé. Joe and I just stood outside of the building, marveling at its beauty.

From ECOWAS, Joe and I went scavenging for food. Walking through the streets of Lomé, we passed plenty of clothing vendors, woodcarving shops (monkeys, hippos, and a sax player) and other sorts of touristy stuff. Asking for a place to eat, we met a person who spoke Twi. The three of us had a conversation in butchered English, French, and Twi, which made for a great laugh.

We continued wandering around Lomé, toward the Grand Marché, until we ran into a man named Alex. Alex sold some beautiful Ewe masks, one of which I bought.

After a quick dinner, Joe and I made our way through the Grande Marché, which was closing down for the night, and came across a beautiful cathedral. We heard some rumblings on the inside, and went in to check it out. Mass was being held, and we went in. They were going through Hail Mary’s at the time; Joe and I sat there and just enjoyed the sound of people praying in French. 15 minutes, and we were out of there.

We returned to the hotel, thinking it was late, until we saw a clock – 7:30. We were both wiped, but mustered enough energy to go to a bar for a Togolese beer, which was quite tasty.

On the way out, this man selling woodwork walked by with this beautiful ebony piece – A drummer. I was taken by it and purchased it for 3000 CFA.

Saturday 21 October – When in Lomé…

We got up and at it around 9 AM, looking to fill an ambitious schedule. But first, we needed some grub. Joe grabbed a croissant from a little street-side vendor and we made our way looking for a café. We came across Café Corsini and enjoyed some ridiculously good espressos – Joe’s from Colombia, mine from Kenya.

Hopped up on caffeine, we headed toward Place de l’Independance. The monument is absolutely spectacular, and it seems to have both African and French influence. Here, we met Gilbert, who walked around with us for the day. He wasn’t so much of a guide as much as a local companion and translator when needed.

From there, we walked toward the presidential palace, which is buried behind a wall and rows of trees. Along the way, we came across the sports complex which had a soccer field, basketball courts, volleyball courts, and others. On the side of the road, we bought some amazing fruit juice slushy, which we mixed with water to make a perfect drink.

Being close to the beach, we headed down, and strolled from the beach to the Grande Marché. Being Saturday, Grande Marché was somewhat panicked, but nothing we couldn’t handle. The clothing was about the same price, the baguette was amazing, and I finally found some cloth for some very important people. Some nice cloth for a shirt for my dad and some pimpin’ Ewe print orange and black (SF Giants colors) cloth for Joe.

Once we got to the end of Grande Marché, Joe and I stopped in the cathedral again, where there were very few people. The cathedral is spectacular, with a ton of colonial influence. We stayed for 15 or 20 minutes, admiring the paintings, stain-glass, and woodwork of the cathedral.

With most of our itinerary done, we caught a couple of motos and made our way to the Marché des Fetisheurs. The Fetish Market is a voodoo market with all sorts of crazy voodoo stuff, including monkey skulls, gorilla skulls, gazelle skulls, and dog heads among other things. We also met the voodoo chief, who performed some sort of benediction. I bought some cool voodoo dolls and, outside of a minor international conflict over the price of another item, it was an amazing experience.

We came back to the hotel, and at the same time, a group of girls from the university pulled up to the hotel. We all stayed at the same hotel the next couple nights.

Hungry from a long day, Joe and I went to this lovely croissanterie, about 20 metres from the hotel. I got this amazing meal of bread, meat, mixed veggies and French fries for 1000 CFA. We followed dinner with some amazing desserts from a neighboring patisserie. A few hours later, a few of us headed down to the Bar Panini for a drink, a reward for getting through a long day.

Sunday 22 October – Beach and Baguettes

The title for the day is fairly representative of my day. Around 10, all of us, except Joe went to the beach. Along the way, we stopped for quite possibly the most amazing food ever – a baguette, stuffed with avocado, onions, lettuce and tomato, with a dash of olive oil. What made it even better was that the whole thing cost 150 CFA – 30 cents! We walked and ate, getting down to the beach by the pier. The pier is no longer used, and after walking on it, it’s pretty clear why it is not used anymore.

The beach was beautiful, and desolate for the most part. A rather large group came toward us, clearly drawn by “les blanches” – the whites (it was a nice change from “obruni”). We definitely brought the party to us. The waves were absolutely massive, and the tides were pretty strong, but nothing that couldn’t be handled. The water was like a bath. At one point, I had one of those “in Africa” moments. I realized that I was swimming in the Atlantic Ocean, but in Africa. So strange.

The sun beat me down pretty badly – I forgot how close to the equator we are, and I burnt to a crisp. Exhausted, a crashed pretty early

23 October

Having done everything that I wanted to do, I decided to make my way back home. After an obnoxiously good chocolate croissant and orange juice, Joy and I got on a couple motos, headed to the border, and checked out. Besides the flat tire, our tro-tro ride was easy.

Back in Legon, a lot of people on the floor asked about my trip. I showed them my pictures and my purchases. In the evening, Duncan’s father joined us for some Rich Love. Then we headed to Jazz Tones, a nice little jazz bar, where we indulged on Bailey’s, a screwdriver, and a kamikaze on Mr. Wold’s dime.

In all, it was an incredible and affordable weekend. I definitely plan on returning to Lomé just for a weekend, if nothing else but the baguette and avocado. So good.

For now, though, back to normalcy in Legon. Pictures will be up as soon as possible.

LDG.

Thursday, October 19, 2006

Grills and Grades

Sunday October 15 – Straight Grillin, Part I

Today was all about killing time. Auntie Irene – the woman in charge of the EAP program here – decided that it would be a good day to hold the “maiden barbecue” at her house at 3 PM. The email said there would be “large quantities of meat.” So I cancelled all my plans for the day and made this priority number one.

So we had 5 hours to kill. Duncan and I made our way over to On the Run (like 7-11) and Pizza Inn, where we would use the fine restrooms and dine on French bread pizza. Yes! (Our bathrooms haven’t been cleaned for a while, and no running water means no flushing toilets). We killed solid hour and a half not really doing anything except eating.

From On the Run, we took an adventure to MaxxMart, which is an actually supermarket. Everything is important, so a thing of grapes is like 6 dollars, and a small thing of cheese is almost 8 dollars. Outrageous. We were going to buy some hotdogs, but all of the dogs were either way to dark to be normal hotdogs, horribly freezer-burnt, or both. We passed on the hotdogs, and continued to marvel at some of the things that we could buy – brie, waffle mix, salsa, etc. – and then we came across something we actually couldn’t find in the U.S. – Cuban cigars!! After some debate, we each decided to get one; I got a Cohiba, he got a Romeo y Julieta. It’s been a while since I’ve had a Cuban, and this made me very happy. Nothing like beer, stogies, and barbecue.

O yes, beer. We tried to buy beer at Tyme Out, an on-campus bar/internet café/pool hall. But they wouldn’t let us take the bottles away because they return the bottles to the bottling company for a deposit. They wouldn’t even let us pay the price of the return deposit – something most people will do. Pricks. So we returned to On the Run, picked up some brews, and were on the way. Or so we thought.

Like no one else, EAP runs on Ghanaian time, so we didn’t even leave for the barbecue until 4. It was worth the wait though. There were large quantities (and varieties) of meat, including filet kabobs, burgers, chicken and fish, if you can call that meat. Seeing that much food forced me to eat as much as humanly possible, plus some. To put it nicely – I would have kicked Kobiyashi’s ass in an eating contest tonight.

We capped the night with a couple games of pool, and some more beer. Mmmm. Beer.

Monday, October 16, 2006 – Straight Grillin, Part II

Another productive day by Ghanaian standards. I shot off a bunch of emails to people who I needed/wanted to speak to. Duncan and I went back for more pineapple-filled Rich Love (the whole Rich Love story will be coming soon, I promise). I also bought a new pair of sunglasses – some slick gold, rimmed brown-shaded aviators, for 30,000 cedis – a tad more than 3 dollars (I was told by a Ghanaian that I overpaid. Whatev).

Internet was finished in the International Programs Office, so I jumped online at Volta, sent some more emails, and scoped out places to live in San Diego for the winter.

We were teased with electricity this afternoon. It came on for half an hour before it was abruptly shut down. We were told thought that it would be back at 6AM. I’ll believe it when I see it.

Nothing really exciting happened today. After dinner at TacoBell, Duncan and I returned to Tyme Out for some more billiards and beer. I finally surrendered a game to him – he’s getting better with practice. I’m sure he will beat me more in future days.

Tuesday October 17th – Return to Refugees

For the first time in a couple weeks, I made a return to Buduburam Refugee Camp. (begin rant) I haven’t gone for a couple weeks, mostly because the organization at home apparently is completely dysfunctional. They are just now putting together an outline for the economics of the school lunch program, something that should have been done months ago. It’s really bothersome and quite concerning that the unorganized, slow group is on the side of the United States, and not that of Ghana. It would be understandable if the camp was slow to get things together; in fact, they are amazingly on top of things. It is the organization at home that is holding things up. And to be quite honest, I don’t know how much longer I will be working with AfricaAid (end rant).

The refugee camp was great. It gets better every time I go there. Finding my way around is not as intimidating, I’m comfortable with a lot of people on Camp – especially the people at SHIFSD – and being around the sheer poverty has gotten easier with time.

I had a brief meeting Jeremiah, the Director of SHIFSD. I expressed both my anger and disappointment concerning the progress – or lack thereof – on the San Diego side of things. He understood that it wasn’t my fault, and thanked me for all that I have done thus far (more appreciation than I’ve got from the SD side. Grrr!).

Jeremiah told me in the last few weeks that he had finished going over the curriculum with the other teachers, and they were all thoroughly satisfied. He had concerns that students would ask questions that we failed to answer; the truth is that this would actually be a good thing. If they are asking questions, it means they are engaged, plus it will give us a starting point to editing the curriculum for future years.

On the way out of camp, I went on the hunt for cloth. I’m bringing home a lot of clothing, for my friends, my family and myself. After looking through a couple shops, I found a perfect cloth for a skirt for my sister. It’s teal, with some dark brown and some lighter brown. Rach is a big fan of teal, so I’m sure she will like it.

The tro-tro rides to and from camp were silky smooth, except for the mate who overcharged me by 500 cedis (6 cents) to get from Circle to Legon. Outrageous.

Power is still finished, but this was our scheduled day to have power out, so it’s forgivable. Another night by candlelight won’t be so bad. It actually hasn’t been so bad. While it is frustrating that we need to go elsewhere to charge phones, computers, etc., the situation as whole hasn’t been tough. We’re out and about during the day, and at night, it’s sleep time anyway.

As always, Tuesday means Two-for, Two-timer, Terrific Tuesday Pizza. Duncan and I split a couple pizzas, which were pretty tasty, especially after a long day of travel and walking on camp. A couple games of pool, and a bit of internet time, and I called it a night.

Wednesday, October 18th – And I Thought the Exchange Rate was Good…

I’ve been waiting for this day for a week now. Today was the day that our papers for Org Theory would be returned. I was eager to see how I stacked up against other students here. Returning the papers was chaotic – ironic considering the class is about efficiency. Before the papers were returned, Professor Anebo (uh-NEE-bo) read out the ID numbers of the top 6 or 7 scores. Mixed in the middle, I hear “ten twenty-three thirty-nine forty-four” – my number. Alrighty, we’re in business. He told the people not to stand up and to get the papers from him later.

It was a long wait while the other papers were returned, so I put my head down for a bit, knowing my number wouldn’t be called again. As it turns out, Anebo cancelled class because it took so long for the papers to be returned.

With about 45 minutes left in class, Anebo walked up the side that I was sitting, and asked if I was Lee. With a name like Lee Gerston, it was pretty easy to figure out. Everyone else has very Ghanaian/African names. Clearly, “Lee Gerston” is not African. He told me that I wrote an excellent paper and that one of the students asked if it could be photocopied – I told him “of course.” I asked him if I could look at my grade – 22 out of 30. Wow. Hello. Confused, I returned the paper to him, and started chatting with the people surrounding me.

Once all the papers were handed out, someone asked what was the highest score. Anebo said “I think it was 19 or 20…” Then he looked at my paper: “No, it was 22” He then said something along the lines of “I don’t mean to embarrass you, but it’s something that the highest score in the class comes from a foreigner.” This turned heads, mostly toward me. “And just to show you the physical imparities don’t mean anything when it comes to academics, the second highest score was recorded by this gentleman,” a deaf kid. Double slap in the face. Hahaha.

The scale of grading for the paper was just crazy. Out of 30, 15 was a passing grade, and 18 and above was an A+. For all you math majors, that means 60% is an A+. I can work with this grading scale, for sure

After that, many people asked to see my paper, talk to me about it, etc. There may have been some bitterness, but for the most part, they were eager to know what I did.

Walking back from the PoliSci department after lunch – I gave Anebo a fresh copy to photocopy – I was called “White Man” for the first time. Not angrily, just matter-of-factly. It was actually refreshing from hearing “obruni.” He wanted to know exactly what I wrote to earn a top grade, so I explained in easy terms. It all made sense to him, which was good. Hopefully he will improve his writing.

Duncan and I got some Rich Love, and then he left to do some research for his research paper on palm wine. He’s going to get wasted this week.

On a not so good note, I haven’t felt so well the last couple of days. I had a minor fever a couple days ago, but worse than that, my stomach has just been reeling. The condition of our bathroom is a complete wreck – with no running water, toilets haven’t been flushed for the last week. You can imagine the odor. I think I’ve been sick due to a combination of bad food, an irregular number of bug bites and the bathroom. There are so many germs in there its disturbing. It’s created a sick cycle because having to use the restroom makes me more sick, which makes me need to use the restroom more. Hopefully I’ll get over it quickly.

For the evening, I just relaxed. I had a couple phone calls to make – Ryan and my brother Adam both via Skype. Skype is a miracle of technology. It allows me to call anywhere in the world for .017 Euro per minute. It’s nothing. It was good to talk to people who are living under regular conditions.

Thursday October 19th – Water and Power? What?

Yes, we have power and water. But let me lay out my day first.

I knew today would be busy. I didn’t know just how busy. But busy is good. I was up at 6:30, not knowing whether my 7:30 class would meet. Mark and I were about to walk down the stairs when a guy walking up to the fifth floor told us that class was cancelled. Excellent – more sleep for me.

Another bit of sleep, and I was awake – again – at 9 for 9:30 class. Class started on time for a change, and was released early, which made me happy. It gave me sufficient time to print my paper for my advisor, which I subsequently dropped of. I haven’t had a meeting with my advisor that lasted for more than 5 minutes, which is sweet.

I got some lunch, which really isn’t important. But coming back from Akuafo Dining Hall, I could hear the water running. Whooooo! I ran up to my room, grabbed my bucket, 17 shirts, and my Woolite. (Sidenote: it’s an odd feeling to have water for the first time in 8 days – which means no running water showers for 8 days – and to have my first impression be, “Wow, I get to do laundry!) After five loads of laundry, I rewarded myself with a glorious shower.

While I was in the shower, Duncan called, looking to go to Rich Love. Will joined us, and we destroyed a 30,000 bowl of rice and chicken. The bowl was literally filled to the top with rice, vegetables and 6 pieces of chicken. We were all feeling pretty sick after. While the meal was good, the entertainment was better. Duncan brought back a gallon of palm wine from wherever he did research, and we got some of the employees at Rich Love absolutely wasted! It was one of the funniest moments of the trip.

Upon return, I stopped into Joe’s room to plan our trip to Togo. We won’t; be straying very far from the capital, so we found some things to do. Joe is going pretty much just to practice his French, which is fine. I’m looking forward to standing in Place de l’Independance (Independence Square), checking out the National Museum, and just relaxing on the fine beaches of Lomé.

Dinner is definitely not happening tonight – I still feel full from Rich Love. So I went to sleep at 5:00. “Why,” you ask. NLCS Game 7 is tonight, and running concurrently will be the Sharks game on Comcast, which is doubly good news.

Oh yes. The water and electricity are both on. At the same time. Quite possibly for the first time this semester. Absolutely incredible – it’s so novel.

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I’m gone for the “weekend” until Tuesday. I should be back at some time Tuesday afternoon, so look for a full update with pictures from Togo.

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LDG

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

MyGhana -- Rich Love

This is going to be the first of many posts like this. I'm going to be spending a lot of time abroad and I've realized that I haven't gone into depth about a lot of day-to-day things. So I'm going to add these little detailed posts about what fills my days and weeks.

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For those who have been reading, the words "Rich Love" have popped up many times. No, Rich Love is not a brothel. Nor is it the name of the head of a prostitution ring. Rich Love is my favorite place to dine here in Legon.

Rich Love is not just a restaurant; it is an experience. It is a place where Duncan and I are allowed to cook our own food, and we are taken care of very well. We are return customers like no other. For us, Rich Love is a place where "everyone knows your name."

Duncan and I go to Rich Love between 3 and 6 times per week. The food is not only outrageously good, but it's outrageously cheap. The base of rice and grilled chicken can be spruced up in many ways. Sometimes we get green peppers with it. Sometimes we get tomato and pepper spicy sauce with it. Sometimes, we add cabbage, onion and carrots. And most recently, we've started adding grilled pineapple.

Earlier in the week, Duncan and I went there and took over. Duncan grilled up some chicken, I grilled the pineapple and we were in for a delicious meal.

Here are the photos

Duncan at the grill
Me flippling some pineapple
Our work in progress
Wow. Yum
This food will be destroyed in less than 5 minutes

Saturday, October 14, 2006

Outage Outrage

Thursday, October 12th

So I have completely lost my mind. After taking a brief nap in the late afternoon/early evening on Wednesday, I woke up just before midnight to join Mark, Haley and Kevin to watch the A’s try to pull even in the series. The game started with such promise with the A’s actually getting a hit with a runner in scoring position. But every time the A’s got a lead, they surrendered it in the next inning.

Once again, the bullpen did a decent job, cleaning up for Loaiza. They had a shot in the ninth, when the bats finally decided to show up. Three consecutive singles loaded the bases for Frank Thomas, who was 0-for-whatever going into his final at bat. He had a chance to fulfill every little boy’s dream: hitting a grand slam in the bottom of the ninth with two outs down by three. Instead, he choked, weakly flying out.

It appears as if the A’s are asaa. I know I was for the next couple hours, before class. All four of us had 7:30 AM class. We all went to bed disappointed.

After a solid two hours of sleep, I went to class. Thursday is my better class day. Somehow, I managed to stay awake through the first class, running on nothing. We learned about Guinea-Bissau’s civil war in the last decade, which was interesting. The professor is dry, but with that comes a great, dry sense of humor. A couple of good laughs helped keep me awake.

In between classes, I got a Tampico (citrus drink) and some rice and spaghetti – carbs to get me through the second class. Except, my second class got cancelled. We waited an hour for the idiot professor to show up, but he never did. Whatever. I really don’t know why the students tolerate that kind of thing. It really bothers me. I could have been sleeping.

I grabbed a quick bite to eat, nothing too special, and came back to the room. And I immediately crashed. In a perfect world, I would take a nap which was long enough to get me through the day, but short enough as to not keep me awake all night. I need to get on a normal sleep schedule.

I slept from one until four-thirty. Perfect. Three-and-a-half solid hours was just right. I was awake, yet still somewhat drowsy.

After a nice conversation with my grandmother, I got some dinner with Liz, who goes to Indiana. I told her that I would help her save and upload pictures, but electricity/internet at Volta internet café was finished. We killed the time until it would be up (45 minutes or so) by eating at Tacobell, which has no Mexican food (only in Ghana…). Everything was finished except for rice and chicken, which was fine.

For the third night in a row, we got rain at night. I don’t mind it; it keeps everything here a bit cooler. Even though it is hot as hell already, it’s supposed to get hotter. Great. I’ll enjoy my night’s sleep tonight, knowing that I have no major priorities tomorrow.

Friday, October 13

Today was actually a good day, especially considering that it is Friday the 13th. Just more proof that everything is backwards in Africa (haha. But seriously…). After a full night’s sleep (and more importantly, getting back on a normal sleep schedule), Joe and I wandered down to the Togolese Embassy to pick up a couple visas – a multiple entry Togo visa and a five-country visa which allows me to get into Togo, Benin, Niger, Burkina Faso and Cote d’Ivoire once each. We filled out the forms and were told to be back at 2. No sweat – other than what is normal for here.

From the embassy, we took a couple tro-tros and a taxi to North Kineshie. Joe has some friends who sponsor a child through World Vision, and he is looking to meet with the girl. We met with a nice man named Emmanuel, which is a popular name here. Joe set up a time to go to Nkawkaw (where the girl lives) and we were on our way back to the Togolese Embassy.

We rolled in promptly at 2:00 and lo and behold, our visas were ready. I think it was the first time that we’ve been told a time, and they meant it! It was perfect. So we have plans to go into Togo next weekend, which will be nice. They’re French, so I’m looking forward to some good food.

More baseball coming up tonight. Thankfully, the game got pushed up to 8:30PM GMT, so I won’t be up until the 4AM again. A full review tomorrow.

October 14th

Pathetic. Again. Joe told me that I should have faith, but now that the A’s are down 3-0, they are all but finished. Yea, Harden got kinda lit up in the early innings, but that said, he went 5 2/3 and only gave up 3. Kenny Rogers was lights out, and the offense for the A’s just can’t do anything. It’s sad.

Okay, enough of that.

* begin rant *

I’m officially angry for the first time on this trip (there may be some not-so-nice words, so cover your childrens’ eyes). It’s taken eleven weeks, but now I’m fired up. Sure, I’ve had my frustrations: the nineteen-hour train ride from Takoradi to Kumasi, Kumasi in general, crappy tro-tro rides, and a lack of diversity in food. But they are all things that I’ve taken in stride, and for the most part, I’ve been able to make the most out of situations. But this is too much.

Today is the third day in a row that Legon Hall Annex A has not had electricity. Three days. Three fuckin days. Three days of no fan, no lights, no charging my phone. Yea, reading by candlelight is really romantic and all, but please. This shit is outrageous. It’s not that the power is out. We have a schedule now, so we know exactly when our power should be out. Usually it’s only out in twelve our blocks, every sixty hours. Now, we’re approaching sixty straight hours of power out. And our building is the only in our power block that does not have power. And nothing is being done about it because it’s the weekend. Ridiculous.

And to make all of this worse, we haven’t had running water for four days. Aaaaaaaaaahhhhh!!!! I’ve waited patiently for the water to come on. I have come to treasure running water. I’ve been dying for a decent shower. But it got to the point where even I couldn’t stand myself, so I took a bucket shower, again.

This whole thing is inexcusable. There are many things I will miss when I leave Ghana. I won’t miss this crap when I get back to the States.

* end rant *

The afternoon was rather fantastic. Duncan and I hit up Rich Love, and had the best meal we’ve had there by far! Standard rice and grilled chicken, but we got the special pepper and tomato sauce, and added grilled pineapple. The taste buds exploded. Wow.

We finally got an explanation on the power outage. The transformer is blown and won’t be fixed until Tuesday, which means Thursday at the earliest. Prepared, Duncan and I had purchased candles at the Bush Canteen – 8 candles for 1 dollar. Haha.

When we got back, I had Duncan teach me the third part to this drumming piece I’m learning. It’s pretty sweet, and I hope to learn a couple pieces before I get out of here.

Walking over to the internet café, we saw quite possibly the most beautiful girl on campus. Prior to actually seeing her, we only saw a silhouette, and it was, well, perfect. Then we saw her face, and well, she had a face to match her body. Just the end of a lovely afternoon.

Hopefully, the A’s can make it a perfect night and score a run or two tonight.

LDG

Wednesday, October 11, 2006

Asaa -- It is Finished

Sunday, October 8th

After a steady dose of baseball, the boys decided that we needed something different: football. And not futbol. Real American, bone-jarring football. Duncan, Will and I made our way to Champs, for the thousandth time in a week, hoping to catch the 49ers-Raiders game. When we arrived at Champs, we found a pair of signs on the front door. One said that there was a 60,000 cedi charge to get in, which is outrageous to begin with. The second – and worse of the two – signs said that Sundays were movie nights and they would be airing “The Da Vinci Code” and “The Lakehouse.” Uhhh, where’s my football? And what kind of obruni-run sports bar doesn’t show football on Sundays?!
We asked around where we could watch football – no not that futbol, as we had to explain countless times. We went to a bar across the street that had a satellite. But Sundays were karaoke night at this bar. Argghh!

Needless to say, we were sorely disappointed, but we made the most of a bad situation. There was a live band playing at the hotel near Champs, so the three of us sat down, enjoyed a beer and called it a night.

Monday, October 9th

Today was a day full of accomplishments, by African standards. By that, I mean that if you get more than one thing done in a day, it’s an amazing day. That one thing may be going to a market, going to class, whatever. As long as it gets done.

For a nice change, we had no running water (this is starting to get to me). Desperately needing to wash my sheets and towels, I rolled out of bed, filled 2 buckets of water from a different water line downstairs, walked up 4 staircases with 2 very full buckets of water and got scrubbing. By 10:30, I had already down my day’s work. As a reward, I gave myself a nice bucket shower, which is not exactly like running water, but in a pinch, it does the job.

I was a man on a mission today. I decided that today was a good day to get crackin’ on the rest of my independent study paper, which is on the High Holy Days (killing two birds with one stone for sure. Haha.). I had already written my bit for Rosh Hashanah, so I’ll I needed was a couple pages on Yom Kippur. At 2 in the afternoon, I was finished. I’m amazing.

The afternoon was lazy, and well deserved if I may say. I got in some internet time, took a solid nap, and cleaned up the room a little a bit.

For dinner, Duncan and I went to Rich Love. Duncan has been fighting malaria/post-malaria symptoms for some time now. One of those symptoms is a lack of appetite, but as evidenced by his sheer dominance over our 20,000 cedi shared bowl of food, that was clearly over.

Tuesday, October 10th

Just like Sundays mean Football, Tuesday means one thing (well two): beer and 2-for-1 pizza. Woo! But before that would happen, I would have a lazy, unproductive Tuesday.

We actually had running water, so I sprinted from my room to the disgusting bathroom (pictures of that will be coming soon). The shower was perfect. By the time I got out, I was dirty again and already sweating. Why can’t we get a nice 78 degree day here?

I rolled over to the International Programmes Office to capitalize on some free internet. But internet was asaa (finished – get used to that word). Gah! There is only one way to fix the situation: Rich Love. Yum. Duncan and I rolled over and ordered our typical stuff: 20,000 cedi bowl with rice, chicken, salad, and vegetable sauce. But vegetable sauce was asaa. Alrighty. So we decided to spruce it up with some fresh grilled pineapple. The pineapple here is really amazing. It’s not too sweet, and it’s so juicy. It is salivating.

We downed the food in no time flat and took a short walk to a palm wine chop bar. Duncan is doing his research on palm wine, and this means drinking many a-calabash of palm wine. Palm wine is low in alcohol content and sweet when it is fresh, but it ferments and sours very quickly (after a while, it can be distilled to make akpoteshie). I refrained from drinking, but Duncan had his calabash and 2 liters to go to give to someone for payment for a drum lesson.

The afternoon was killed by doing nothing, naturally. There is pretty much nothing to do in Legon, and going anywhere is both time-consuming and tiring. I filled out my multi-country (Togo, Benin, Burkina Faso, Cote D’Ivoire, Niger) visa in preparation for some serious international travel in the coming weeks. Then it was beer and pizza time.

As always, I got my two mediums, which aren’t that medium. They’re actually rather small. I asked for thick crust, but thick crust was asaa. Duncan got the last one. Not a big deal though – with enough beer, pizza is pizza.

Tuesday night was one of the best nights for me on the trip. I had a good buzz going, which is always nice, but I also got to talk to a lot of the important people in my life. I was able to speak with my brother via Skype (which might be the coolest thing ever), IM with both my parents, IM with Ryan and Joe – my two best friends, and Agustina, a friend from home. It was nice to catch up with everyone a bit. The night could only be better if the A’s could pull out a victory in the wee hours of a morning.

Wednesday, October 11th

I must be out of my mind. I’ve finally lost it. Mark, my fellow Oakland A’s lover, found not one but two ways to view the ball game: via satellite in one of the internet cafes, and via streaming video. While people in the States cannot getting streaming video – they can only get radio – people abroad can get streaming video of every game for 14.95. Cash money.

I met Mark at Tyme Out internet café on campus just after midnight. The game was on, and we were happy, despite both being awake purely on caffeine and adrenaline. It looked good for a couple innings. Zito was dealing, the A’s were having no trouble getting on base. Then the rains came, in more than one way. Zito starting sucking, giving up a pair of homers. D’Angelo Jimenez blew an easy double play. And nobody – literally nobody – on the A’s could hit with runners in scoring position. The rain also actually came down hard on Legon, so much so that because of the rain, the satellite was asaa.

Like a military squad through a storm, Mark, Kevin (who had joined us in the café) and I gathered our things and ran to Volta internet café. We hooked in my laptop, and we were up and running again. It was not looking good for the A’s, down 5-0. After 3 and 2/3 innings, Zito was asaa. And it only got worse. The score remained the same, but the A’s (outside of 5+ innings of great bullpen work) looked miserable. Bottom lines: 4 double plays (an LCS record), 0-13 with runners in scoring position (tied for the playoff record), and stupidly high 2.8 WHIP and 7.50 ERA for Zito. Disgusting.

The game ended at 4 AM. Like I said, I’m out of my mind.

After four-and-a-half solid hours of sleep, I got up for class, feeling rather disgusting and tired. Organisation Theory is my favorite class, but it’s a class where the inmates run the asylum. Class ended 30 minutes early because the students wanted it to end. Something like that would never happen in the States.

Don’t know what’s on tap for the afternoon. Game 2 is tonight, at midnight again. But I have a 7:30 class. I don’t think I’m getting up for that one.

I’m not that out of my mind.

LDG

Sunday, October 08, 2006

SportsCenter

Tis the season. October is one of my favorite months. It is at this point of the year that the end of the semester/quarter is in sight, and winter break is just around the bend. But October is one of the best months for one reason and one reason only: sports. The lethal combination of playoff baseball and a fresh hockey season would usually have me planted in front of a television for hours on end. But given the circumstances, this would be an impossibility. Or is it?

Thank the good lord for Champs Sportsbar. Champs is an amazing place. Not only do they have a satellite that picks up American channels, but they also have the only Mexican food in Accra (the fajitas are pretty good, I must say). It’s a nice break from rice and chicken, or fufu, or any other Ghanaian food that we’ve become somewhat sick of.

Wednesday, October 4th – ALDS Game 2: A’s vs. Twins.

I woke up Wednesday filled with anticipation. 12 hours until first pitch of Game 2. I missed Game 1 – Barry Zito’s unbelievable 8 inning performance – yesterday because I was totally shot from my 11 hour travel day from Sefwi Wiawso. I would not miss Game 2. But first, I had some business to take care of.

Classes are halfway through, and for one class – Gov in Ghana – I am finished. I am done going to that class. The professor really sucks. He dictates horribly and there is nothing he said that could be called analysis. He has essentially given us a timeline for what has happened since 1957. I’m not going to waste my time with that anymore; I’d rather just get a couple books and learn it for myself. So I walked out of that class half way through at around 1:30 (three and half hours until first pitch).

I grabbed my standard lunch – rice, pasta, salad, chicken stew – and tried to figure out the next couple of hours. By the time I was done with lunch, it was 2:30. Two hours should be easy to kill. I jumped on the internet, talked with the parents via webcam, which is the coolest thing ever, checked mail and read the previews for Game 2.

I rolled back to Legon Hall around 4:25 where I ran into Mark, my partner in crime for viewing these games. I asked him when he planned to leave, to which he responded “30 to 60 seconds.” It has arrived.

We “negotiated” for a taxi, which was a joke. It’s hard enough to get a fair price on a taxi because we’re white, but taxi drivers always have an excuse for wanting more money: it’s early, there’s traffic, it’s late. It’s always something. This time, being around 4:30, there would be traffic. Being in a hurry though, we took a cab for 40,000 – 10-15,000 more than usual. Mark laid into the driver for a couple minutes. Naturally, there was absolutely no traffic. Ridiculous. I threw in my two cents of anger as we got out of the taxi. But we were here, and it’s baseball time.

Minus the back-to-back homers that he gave up, Esteban Loaiza pitched a gem of a game – more than we could have asked for. Thank god that Torii Hunter made an idiotic play, trying to get out of the inning, that resulted in a two-run inside-the-park homerun. And with the rock-solid bullpen of Kiko Calero, Justin Duchscherer and Huston Street, it was over. A’s win, A’s win, 4-2. Up two-nothing in the series, things looked promising for moving into the ALCS.

Thursday, October 5th – Living on 90 Minutes of Sleep

Quite literally the worst sleep of my life. I was exhausted after the ballgame and looked forward to a lovely night of sleep. However, my body and a couple hundred water-bearing Ghanaian students had other ideas.

Right around midnight, a large rumble came from downstairs – more “fresher” initiation. All the freshmen are getting tagged with water. Some of them try to run, but they are always caught and dragged back. It’s pretty funny to watch, but it does look awfully painful. All students not participating – including me – stood out on the balconies watching the events.

By 1AM, I was ready to crash. I couldn’t fall asleep for the life of me. Too many thoughts running through my head. About baseball, about fresher initiation, about whatever else. I knew I needed to sleep, because I would be up at 6:30 for class. After rolling around, flipping around, and who knows what else, I fell asleep – at 5. This is going to be a fun day.

I was surprisingly awake for class. Back to back classes from 7:30 to 11:30 are not so bad. The content is fairly interesting, and the second professor showed up late so I was able to put my head down for about 45 minutes.

I don’t remember much of what I did for the rest of Thursday. I sure didn’t do much. I read up on the Sharks thrilling 5-4 overtime victory and grabbed some lunch, which came just at the right time. I was losing it quickly and all those carbs gave me a good boost. By 4, I was done. I crawled into bed, laid down, and caught a glorious nap, until dinner time. Dinner gave me a second or third or whatever wind, enough to play a couple games of Hearts with Duncan and Rags. Once it got late, I just wanted to see if I could make it to midnight. And I did. That day is just a blur.

Friday, October 6th – Still Ballin’

Today was a very productive day, especially considering the late hour at which I got out of bed. My clothes which I had washed a couple days prior we’re finally dry and were in desperate need of ironing (I’m so domestic). I finished my ironing, and started cleaning my room a bit, which has slowly deteriorated into a garbage dump. Satisfied with the state of the room I walked over to the UC study center to print a rough draft of a paper for a professor to read. Of course, he wasn’t in his office for his scheduled office hours. I’ll try again next week, I guess.

Around 3, I ran into a couple of kids with tennis racquets. Intrigued, I asked them where they were going to play and asked if I could join. I borrowed a friend’s racquet and made my way up. This should be very interesting.

I’m sometimes amazed at how quickly I can get my game back together. It’s been 10 weeks since I’ve had a racquet in my hand, and there were many other conditions which should have made me suck: a racquet I’ve never played with, clay courts – which I have never played on – and African heat and humidity, which is like nothing I’ve played in.

I was thrown right into the fire, and played a tie-breaker against the #2 kid in the school. I lost valiantly 7-5, fairly satisfied with my performance. Playing on clay courts is a different beast. It’s a dirty game, both figuratively and literally. Slice and dropshots are utilized a lot more, which doesn’t really suit my game. And the clay, which to be honest was just glorified dirt here, made my socks orange. It would take some getting used to. For the rest of the afternoon, I played doubles – my game for sure – with a girl who I think was bigger around than tall. But I know that I can make anyone better in doubles, so I ran with it. We were playing the #3 and 4 guys. After dropping the first three games, we turned it on, eventually winning the set, 7-5. I played much better, if it can be called that.

Drenched in sweat, and just an hour from ALDS Game 3, I was in need of a shower like no other. And just my luck, the water is running! I sprinted from my room to the bathroom, and take the best shower I’ve taken since being here. It was perfectly cold. I threw some clothes on, and Mark, Haley, Duncan and I made our way back to Champs Sportsbar.

We ran into a bunch of girls from EAP who we hadn’t seen in a while, so it was nice to chat with them for a bit.

But we had higher priorities: food and baseball. Dan Haren was on the mound for the A’s and he was dealing. Eric Chavez finally decided to hit the ball, coming up with a no-doubter homerun and a double. Marco Scutaro continued hitting RBI doubles. And the trio in the bullpen closed it for a beautiful 8-3 victory – a clean sweep of the Minnesota Twins. As the players drenched each other in alcohol, we celebrated over a beer.

Just as the game ended, Karaoke Night at Champs was starting. I was way too entertained to leave. I got another beer, and enjoyed the performances, drunkenly singing along with the rest of the crowd.

Saturday October 8th – Highlife

No sports today. A rather tame day. The night was a different story.

A formidable posse of us decided to go to some highlife show at the house of the Director of World Bank for Ghana. Feeling like we would be considered “lower class”as students in a venue with dignitaries and whatnot, and knowing that I would never see any of these people again, I decided that I would take on an alias.

My name for the evening was Aziz Ibn-Amadi, and I was the nephew to the CEO of Emirates Airlines. I was in Ghana while my uncle was in Mali, looking to expand to more cities in West Africa.

We took advantage of the free alcohol and food, and enjoyed some excellent movement. I had some pretty ridiculous conversations with people as the heir to the CEO of Emirates. Many a-person asked for my contact information, to which I gave a fake email address.

After 4 glasses, I decided that it would be a good idea to approach the director, Mats Karllsson. He asked where I was from, to which I responded the United Arab Emirates. I thanked him for a lovely evening and hoped that I would return to Ghana soon.

All in all, a pretty ridiculous evening.

Hope everyone had a good week. Talk soon.

LDG