Saturday, December 16, 2006

Right Back Where We Started From

Sunday, December 17th

Since the day I left for Ghana in the closing days of July, I’ve wondered what this last piece of writing would be like. I didn’t know what my feelings would be coming here, and leaving here now, I don’t know if there is one clear-cut sentiment.

On the one hand, I am so ready to come home, to be home. I’m ready to get back to the “normalcy” of the high-speed, high-priced American life. I’m ready to get back to my friends and my family. I’m ready to sleep in my room, in my big bed. I’m ready to be cold again, strange as that seems for a boy who loves the heat.

And to be quite frank, there are things that I, without question, will not miss about Ghana and West Africa as a whole. I won’t miss the mosquitoes and the incessant heat and humidity. I won’t miss cold showers and backed-up-for-weeks toilets. I won’t miss being called an obruni and feeling left out of conversation after conversation because I don’t speak Twi or Ga or Ewe or Fanti. I won’t miss hearing Shakira’s “Hips don’t lie” and James Blunt’s “You’re Beautiful” – the only two English non-rap songs played in the country.

At the same time, there are things that I will miss from this place that really has come to feel like home over the last twenty weeks. Coming back from Egypt, I distinctly remember how normal it felt to be in Ghana, soaked by humidity at 5:30 in the morning. I will miss the kindness of Ghanaians, and their bright white smiles that are flashed when saying “hello.” I will miss eating with my hands and sitting down at tables with complete strangers and having conversations like we’ve been friends for years. Undoubtedly, I will miss the beautiful women and adorable children. I will miss how mothers carry women babies on their back, regardless of the work that must be done. Even though I hate being called obruni, I will miss the children chanting in unison: “Obruni, how are you? I am fine. Thank you!” I will miss groundnut soup and rice balls, glass-bottle sodas and tro-tros

For every thing and for every person I’ve missed at home and look so forward to seeing, there is something or someone that I will miss. And while I never quite felt complete without my everyday things or people, I don’t know if I will quite feel complete coming back. I don’t know if coming home will feel “normal.”

There is so much that is being left behind. But there is so much that I am coming home to, and more importantly, there is so much more that I am bringing back with me. And I don’t just mean the physical items: the bright-colored clothing and the woodwork, the chocolate and the akpoteshie. There are memories and moments that can never be replaced, but will always be replayed.

I’ll be bringing back the pride of knowing that I made a difference in the life of refugees. With me forever will be an education that can’t be taught in a classroom. It is a different kind of education, one with lessons in patience and in kindness, in communication and in appreciation for how people live so happily with so little.

I remember before leaving, when telling people that I was going to be in Ghana studying abroad, I would get two questions: “Where is Ghana?” and “Why are you going to Ghana?” I felt somewhat insulted by both. After all, Ghana had just beaten the U.S. in the World Cup. And I felt like people thought I was crazy for going to Africa. And yes, maybe I am a little crazy. Not everybody would give up the good American life to live in a developing country. Not everyone would take a risk of going to a country with countless diseases and crazy driving. But if you never took a risk, you would never be living.

The last five months have been invaluable. There is no price tag that I could put on this time. There is no way that these experiences, these sights and these sounds can be replaced. There is no atlas, no television show, no encyclopedia that can do this justice. In countless ways, this has been a life-changing experience.

Even when I get home, I know this experience will continue to impact me. I will be able to look back on my experiences here, and compare them to life in the U.S. I know I will be more patient. I know that I will smile at people at school when I walk by them. And I know I won’t be scared to sit at a table with a random person and strike up a conversation. That, to me, is now normal.

Normal, I guess, is relative. What is normal today will seem foreign tomorrow. Regardless, it will always be a part of me, even though I must leave it. As much as I have loved my time here, it must come to an end. All good things do.

LDG

The End Days

Thursday, December 14th

I had initially planned on going to the refugee camp one last time today. Raghav called me at nine, and I just wasn’t quite ready to get my day going. For one reason or another, I haven’t slept well the last few nights, and exhaustion has shortened a lot of these last few days.

I went back to sleep for a bit more time, when I got a call from Duncan. He said that he would be going to Aburi in the afternoon, which I thought was a great idea. Francis also planned to go to Aburi, so I made it a party of three. Both Duncan and I weren’t particularly hungry, so we split a smallish 15,000 bowl of Rich Love, which was rather delicious. From there, we went to Zongo Station, where we were met by Francis. The three of us got to Aburi by the middle of the afternoon. I needed a couple things tweaked with my face carvings – they needed to be lightened and they needed hangers on the back. All of this was done very quickly. I also bought a carving of the “Thinking Man,” which is a very cool piece of work.

For most of the trip on the way back, Duncan and I couldn’t stop talking about the last twenty weeks and the sense of finality that each of us was feeling. It seems that with every passing day, something else is “asaa” or it’s the last time for this or that.

I returned to Legon, grabbed my laptop, and headed to Volta. Finally, the internet café was open, so I was able to work on a fast computer – my own.

After an hour of internet playtime, I walked to the Night Market where I got my dinner – fried rice with shredded beef sauce, one of my favorites here.

I spent the rest of the night studying for my last exam (Underdevelopment Theory), watching Barcelona crush Club America (Mexico), and just relaxing.

Friday, December 15th

I sure didn’t sleep that much last night, but the few hours of sleep I got were really good. I was awakened at 7:15 by a rooster. I guess it’s better than a preacher.

The plan for today was to go to the Accra Brewing Company, and then go to Barclays on High Street to get some coins for my poker set. The day turned out nothing like this.

I was due for a day like this – a day where nothing really goes right and nothing at all gets done. I don’t think I’ve had a day quite like this. It was a day that tested my patience to the fullest.

Duncan and I met at the tro-tro stop in front of school with the hopes of catching a tro-tro to Circle, but traffic was hellacious. It wasn’t even worth trying. We split from there: he went to get some palm wine and I decided to go to High Street.

First, though, I decided to stop at different Barclays to see if they could help me. They told me to go to High Street, which I expected. After some quick bargaining, I got a taxi to High Street. Traffic was horrendous, still, so I decided to get out of the taxi and walk the last three kilometers.

Barclays told me that they didn’t have coins and to go to the next building down. So I tried Standard Chartered, who told me likewise: to go to Bank of Ghana. I went to the next building and I saw Ghana Commercial Bank. I figured that this was the same as Bank of Ghana. I went in and waited. The wait wasn’t so bad though. Christmas music, which usually drives me crazy, reminded me of being home, so it was actually quite nice. The told me to go across the street, into a building buried behind a wall – the Bank of Ghana.

The lights were out in Bank of Ghana and the line was the longest I’ve ever seen in a bank. I spoke to one man around 2:30 who told me that he had been waiting since nine in the morning to be helped. There was no way I was going to wait five hours to get turned away. I found a person who worked in the bank and asked if I could get coins. “No, power is out, we can’t get coins.” What? Are you kidding? I am fed up with it. Three hours of my time, and eighty thousand cedis in taxis gone to waste.

I returned to the university to pick up my plane tickets for my flights on Sunday and Monday. This is all very exciting. Especially after a day like today, I’m ready to get back Stateside.

On campus, I picked up my shirt from Sandra, which turned out, as expected, beautifully. I’m very happy with it. I also threw around a Frisbee with Mark and Raghav. It was nice to get the blood flowing a bit. And to see Ghanaians look at crazy Americans throwing around a plastic plate. Once thoroughly tired and sore, I went into Annex A, just to hang out for a bit.

For dinner, I returned to the Night Market. Through all the waiting I had to deal with, I never had the chance to eat. I was very hungry, and the price of my meal – 26,000 cedis – showed it.

The rest of the night is devoted to studying. One more exam

One more full day.

Saturday, December 16th

Today was as frustrating as yesterday for the same reason. Basically, I had an appointment with someone that I waited eleven hours for, and by the end of the eleven hours, it was cancelled. It is very representative of how African appointments work. I’m very frustrated by it, but I’m keeping in mind that I am on a plane tomorrow.

Three good things happened today, amidst all the waiting.

1) As I was getting units for my phone, I made eye contact with this girl. She smiled at me, and I tried to ignore her. After getting units, I passed her. We said “hi” to each other, and then she said, very calmly, “You are handsome.” I will miss that – how straight-forward the girls are. I smiled, and said “you are very beautiful.” She smiled, and I walked away.

2) I absolutely nailed my underdevelopment final. Not only was it easy, but I felt very prepared for it. I know I’ll get an A in that class. It should be a very nice semester for me.

3) I consumed a nice amount of beer – a Stone, a Castle and a Club – in celebration. I got through it all. Although I still feel very torn about leaving, I’m glad to come home.

Friday, December 15, 2006

The Beginning of the End

Monday, December 11th
I feel like a good portion of my day was wasted today. At the same time, though, I was really exhausted. I woke up rather early, but lay in bed until 10:30 or 11, trying to sleep off my hangover. By 12, the hangover was gone, and I was able to get on with the rest of my day. Even then, I still didn’t get a whole lot done.
I stayed in Annex A for most of the day, feeling out of breath. I spent a good portion of the afternoon on my back, trying to sleep, but failing every time.
Around 7, I went over to Devereau’s room at Volta to go over my itinerary in Israel with her. She is going to Egypt and, like me, wants to spend some time in Israel. She has much more time in Egypt, though, and will be able to go to a lot more places.
By 8:30, Diane and I were on our way to Busy Internet, by Circle. Internet was finished everywhere on campus today, and I was pretty desperate to check my email, talk to Joe and Ryan, and take care of some other business. Prior to going, I stopped at Rich Love to get some food. I wasn’t hungry, but knew I had to eat. Even so, I couldn’t even get through half of my food.
I caught a bit of a second wind once I got back into Legon. I stayed up for a bit, addressing all of Francis’s ridiculous hypothetical questions. Once he got tired of asking questions, I fell asleep.

Tuesday, December 12th
I woke up and realized that one week from now (accounting for the time change), I would be home. I really did nothing of importance today.
I studied a little bit for tomorrow’s exam prior to lunch. Francis and I headed into the Rich Love area; I got Rich Love, and he got Babson’s which is also very good. From there we split; he went to Madina and I went back to Legon, to do some more studying.
I feel like I’m prepared for this exam. In terms of content, I have it nailed. If this were UCSD, this amount of content would qualify for midterm. I just don’t really know what to expect in terms of questions or format for this exam, but I should do just fine.
Late night, Francis and I headed to Pizza Inn to get some dinner. This would be the last time for two-for-one pizza, so we had to take advantage of it. Instead of eating it there, we brought it back to the the hostel. Pizza Inn was way to panicked tonight.
There’s no need to go to bed particularly early for my exam. I need to be on campus by 2, so I will sleep in and study a bit in the morning.

Wednesday, December 13th
Once again, I’m having trouble falling asleep. Thoughts are running wild through my mind. Tonight’s thoughts are all centered around home. At this point, this trip feels over. My brain is on the plan. I can’t stop thinking about Sunday, and my glorious return home on Monday. To say that I am excited to get home would be an understatement beyond belief.
Thankfully, my final is at 3:30 in the afternoon and not 7:30 in the morning.
I got up late, as seems to be the trend in these most recent days. It’s hard to find the motivation to get out of bed when there is so little to do. Once I got up, I made my way over toward campus. I met Duncan at the Basement, which is a restaurant in Central Cafeteria, the location of my exam. We ordered our food, and then ran over to Sandra’s. My shirt was supposed to be ready today, but she had yet to do the embroidery. She told me to come back on Friday, which is no problem. It’s the first time she’s been late with any of my clothing, so I will forgive her.
After dining, I squeezed in some final studying for the exam. I didn’t expect any trouble, and the exam proved to be exactly what I thought it would be: easy. I was done pretty quickly, and as I had the highest student identification number, I walked my way from the very back of the room, up to the front, to turn my paper in. I’m sure I got a couple “damn you, obruni” stares as I made my way out.
I spent a little time at Annex A, talking with friends both Ghanaian and American. I also got in a it of internet time. I was hoping to get online at Volta, but once again, their power was out.
On my way back to the hostel, I stopped at the Night Market to get a hot dog and a beef skewer. It’s been really nice to pack in the protein the last couple nights.

Monday, December 11, 2006

Small Travels, Some Laziness

Tuesday, December 5th – Aburi

The one thing I really wanted to get done today was to filling out the rest of my poker set. Oh, yes – I’m making a poker set out of coins from Ghana. It will be amazing.

I walked into two banks, but I couldn’t get rolls of coins at either bank. My morning had pretty much gone to waste.

I took a tro-tro down to the other end of Legon to get some lunch at Rich Love. They had no chicken, which was thoroughly disappointing. It didn’t really matter though. All that meant is that I would have more room for pizza tonight.

After hanging out in the EAP office and checking my email, Francis and I took a pair of tro-tros to Aburi. Nic the Carver told me that my carvings were done and he wanted to talk about staining them. Nic is a machine. He got a ton of stuff done in less than a week, and all of it is pretty impressive. He blew me away with the carvings I got done. Francis and I both discussed what we wanted done, and each of us took some (or a lot, in Francis’s case) stuff home. I brought back an awesome set of wall shadows, while Francis brought back a massive stool, six masks, two elephants and three drums.

We were back in Legon under a blood-red moon around 7. I had the taxi driver drop me at Pizza Inn and Francis continued to our hostel.

Pizza was amazing. The beer with it was pretty good too. And I won a couple games of pool, which always makes the night better.


Wednesday, November 6th – Madina

Laziness. That’s all I can say. I think I stayed in bed – sleeping, reading or playing Hearts – until around 12:30. Finally, Francis and I found the motivation to move around 2:30. We went to the “Night Market,” which is a place where a lot of food vendors hang around.

By 4, we got a tro-tro to Madina. Francis needed to get some cloth to get some clothes made, and I decided that I was going to get a shirt made for myself. All I have are shorts and I figured I should bring at least one shirt back for me.

I bought some beautiful deep blue cloth, which will make for a very nice shirt, especially with the embroidery. Sandra does some amazing embroidery so I’m really looking forward to it.

About fifteen minutes after getting back to the hostel, our power went out. It's still Ghana


Thursday, December 7th

I stayed in bed for a good long time, in and out of sleep. I continued to read through “Things Fall Apart,” which is pretty good. Some of the names are difficult to pronounce; I could only imagine how much harder they would be had I not been reading and saying African names for the last four months.

Around 12:30, I headed to the university. I called Duncan to see if he wanted to grab some lunch. He told me that he and Francis were already at Babson’s, which is in the same area as Rich Love. Perfect. I walked back across the street and joined the two of them for lunch. Although it is no Rich Love, in my opinion, Babson’s is still pretty good.

After lunch, Duncan and I hit some internet for about half an hour. It wasn’t the internet that was so important; it was the drinking of very cold Pepsi that was. From the internet café, we headed toward Volta Hall. I put in an order for a very nice shirt with Sandra, our tailor. It should come out rather beautifully. A shirt like this would be very expensive in the States; here, it is costing me twenty dollars.

I really didn’t know what to do with the rest of my afternoon. I chilled out at the EAP office for a while, distracting people from doing their independent study projects and playing Hearts. I called Francis to see where he was on his return trip from Aburi and then ran into Duncan on the way back to Legon Hall.

While we waited for Francis to arrive, Duncan and I picked up a drum that he got made. He got it a couple days ago, but it had pink cloth around it, and he really wasn’t okay with that. The newer cloth is much nicer.

As we made our way back to Legon, I saw Nic hanging out outside of my room. He and Babs came back with Francis to bring all of Francis’s stuff back. Nic had finished the my last few carvings, which came out pretty amazingly. While they are not perfect (nothing is), I am very satisfied. He did a great job. I gave him a little money for his tro-tro ride back to Aburi.

Once Francis finished some business in Legon, we made our way back to our hostel. We stopped at the Night Market for dinner: rice balls, groundnut soup, and some beef skewers. It was all quite delicious and filling. I regret not going to this place earlier. The meals are cheap and good, and it’s not so far away.

The rest of the night was spent in the hostel. I repacked a bag, making sure that all of the carvings were surrounded by soft clothing. The last thing I want is for this stuff to break on the flight home. That would be so disappointing. My first bag is right around twenty-three kilos, which is the weight maximum per bag. Luckily, my other bag won’t be so heavy, so if I have to, I can move one or two kilos into the other bag.

Friday, December 8th

Before I went to bed last night, I made a couple lists: things I need to do, things I need to buy and their cost, and how my remaining days would be spent here. The list of things that I need to get done is getting smaller and smaller. The days left on this trip are such that I can count them on my fingers. While I know it is coming to an end, there has yet to be a major sense of finality.

Today’s mission was purchasing chocolate, and lots of it. I went into a store on campus and bought three boxes of chocolate – one for a gift and two for myself to distribute as I see fit. If I haven’t said it before, Ghanaian chocolate is really good. I don’t know what they do to it, but it is incredibly rich, and really can only be eaten in fairly small quantities. It’s going to be a real disappointment going back to Hershey’s when I get through all this chocolate.

For the better part of the afternoon, I spent my time listening to music, relaxing, and getting through the rest of “Things Fall Apart.” I really enjoyed this book. It illustrated very well the life of Africans before and after colonialism.

Saturday, December 9th

Today was one of those days that I just wanted to be done with. Not because anything bad happened, though. I just wanted today to be over so that I could say that I only have one more week here.

Most of what I wanted to get done today was scheduled for the evening. I had nothing to do for the better part of the day, so I decided to put a study guide for my Organization Theory class together. I got about half of it done and then Francis and I headed to the Night Market to get some lunch around 2.

I finished my study guide following lunch, and this pretty much led into the evening. Francis and I returned to the Night Market to get some dinner. We have become masters of hitching rides to campus so we don’t have to pay for a tro-tro or taxi. People are very nice for picking us up and we always express our gratitude.

The entertainment for the evening was a very cool concert put on by students from Ghana and the US, as well as a band from Burkina Faso. The Burkinabé band was very cool and the American performers (from Philadelphia and Memphis) also performed quite well. Our friend, DK, who lives on the fifth floor of Annex A performed some of his spoken word stuff which, quite honestly, sucks. Still, it was only 20,000 cedis – well worth my money.

Sunday, December 10th

I had the most difficult time falling asleep last night. My head was a Cineplex, with a different thought or memory or idea playing on every screen. And I had no power to turn off any of the screens. For hours, I couldn’t stop thinking, so I just rolled around in bed until 4 or 5 in the morning.

Thankfully, I had nothing of importance to do today. So I stayed in bed into the early afternoon. I still don’t feel very awake though. I had some crazy dreams last night, so the sleep I got wasn’t the greatest.

I had planned to go to Rich Love to try to buy some of her recipes around 1:30. I called Duncan to see if he wanted to meet me there, but he was working on his independent study paper. (Side note: I am so happy I am done with that thing.) He told me that he would be working until 3 on his paper and he would be willing to go around 3. I decided to hold out.

Rich Love, as always, was amazing, but today, it was even more amazing. We got a rare treat – green pepper sauce with shredded chicken. This was one of the recipes I wanted to get from her, but she wanted fifty dollars per recipe. Not only do I not have that kind of money, but I think I could figure out what was in her recipes without much effort.

Edith, the owner and chef of Rich Love, told me that she also had some business to talk about. She is considering opening a restaurant on campus and was looking for an investor. As much as I would like to help her, it is just too much of a risk. If I were in Ghana for the next two years, I would definitely do it, but being in America, there is just no way to track what was happening.

This meal put me in an incredible food coma. I am ready to fall asleep immediately. But I will hold out.

In the evening, a bunch of us had a very civilized wine party. I was in rare form. By the end of the evening, I was the most drunk I had been on the whole trip. The result was a not-so-fun evening, mostly on my hands and knees.

Thankfully, though, I did fall asleep very easily.


LDG

Saturday, December 02, 2006

Carvings and Controversy, AIDS and Aid

Tuesday, November 28th

I went to bed somewhat late last night. I wanted to get a little more studying done before I crashed. I think I fell asleep between 1 and 2. My final isn’t scheduled until 3:30 in the afternoon, so I was able to sleep in without losing too much studying time.

I finally woke up around 10, but lazed around in my pajamas and studied in bed for a while. Eventually, I found the strength to roll out of bed, and get some lunch.

When I walked out the door, Matt asked me, with his goofy smile on his face, “Have you seen the letter?” Oh no. Apparently, Francis and Ryan got into a significant verbal fight over Ryan smoking cigarettes in the hallway. The letter, which was a complete joke, grouped all of the EAP kids together, making all of us guilty for the “crimes” of a few. This really flamed a lot of us “white folk,” so instead of going to lunch, I pounded out a draft of a letter that we will post around the hall in the coming days.

After a bit of lunch and some more studying, I walked over to On the Run to use their lovely restroom. On the way there, I saw something I thought I would never see here – a pair of tornadoes. They were small – very small – but I saw both touch down, and then go back into the clouds.

At On the Run, I ran into Duncan and his mom, who chose to cash in on Two-Timer Tuesday earlier. I stayed for a couple minutes with them, but then had to get going. I had to take my final for Poli 305 – Government and Politics in Ghana This is the class that I haven’t attended for the last eleven weeks. In all, it was pretty easy. There was one minor section which I knew nothing about, but everything else, I had a pretty firm idea of what I was saying. I would be shocked if I got anything less than a B or B+ in that class, but I’m expecting a little higher than that.

I returned to continue working on this letter. This thing is going to put their letter to shame. So far, everyone seems okay with it. After some minor edits, I played some cards with Duncan. I’ve been dominating at Spar, but I don’t know if it’s because the cards are running lucky or if I’m just a better player. I’ll give Duncan the benefit of the doubt and say the cards are just coming my way right now.

Around 8:30, I went over to see some of the girls at Volta. Brianna and Isis – one of the girls involved in the accident – are going home tomorrow. It’s for the better that they go home. Being around family and a stable environment will help them a lot. I said my goodbyes after eating some pizza and watching a bit of “Mean Girls” (not my favorite movie).

The rest of the evening was dedicated to tying up a final version of this letter. I should be able to have it printed tomorrow. It should be very interesting to see what kind of response we get.

Wednesday, November 29th

If today can be characterized by one thing, it is the computer. But the reality is, despite sitting behind this machine for the majority of the day, it was still very productive.

My first priority was printing my independent study research paper. I am so glad to have that beast off of my hands. In the end, it was twenty-pages, including a couple pages of pictures. It isn’t perfect – no piece of written work is – but I think the bulk of the content is interesting and well-written.

Priority number two was the printing and the hanging of the obruni response letter to the block lord. Simply put, our letter refuted and rejected every single point that he made. As our good Ghanaian friend, Aziz, said, “You have definitely won the battle.” The proof is in the pudding; most Ghanaians agree with our letter and that idiot of a block lord decided to take all six copies down. He’s a coward, but it doesn’t really matter. The letter got forwarded to the Dean of Students, the Hall Master, the student body president and the Legon Hall president. When it comes down to it, our block lord’s credibility is wrecked; mission accomplished.

In the afternoon, my work continued on the computer. I started cropping some pictures of Ryan and Joe. The crowned jewel of our apartment in San Diego is going to be woodcarvings of our faces. There is something that is so funny – so preposterous – about getting a carving of your own face. How pompous are we? Needless to say, this will be amazing when it is all done.

The last computer mission was to send some pictures and some formatting to Eva, a very close family friend. She and her husband, Adam, might as well be family. Eva is formatting my blog pages into a book, which is very cool, and Adam is going to print it. I’m really excited for this. It’s going to be really cool to go back and read all of this years later.

With all of my work on the computer done, I started working toward tomorrow’s main objective – ordering the woodcarvings. I took the pictures of Joe, Ryan, and myself, put them into black and white, and pulled out the darkest of darks and the lightest of lights. What remained was a very accurate caricature. It will definitely make the job easier for Nic.

Thursday, November 30th

Today started very early, and by very early, I mean 1:10 AM. Craig Edelman, a UCSD grad who I introduced to Africa Aid last year, called me. He had sent me an email yesterday concerning the School Lunch Program, which has been non-existent. He was shocked and disappointed to learn that no progress was made here over the last seventeen weeks.

The call was good; I really needed to vent, and I didn’t care if I woke people up doing it. I expressed my complete displeasure and anger with Africa Aid. He, too, has been somewhat disappointed recently, and he understood my point very well. He asked me a perfect question: “If we sent money tomorrow, would Camp be ready?” Would they be ready? They’ve been ready for three months. I told him that if money were sent immediately, it would be put to use immediately.

After a fifty minute conversation, I went to bed.

I was told last night that Nic would be showing up sometime between 10 and 12, which was perfect. I knew he wouldn’t be showing at 10; it’s very un-Ghanaian to show up at the beginning of a time slot.

Nic arrived at 11:30. Quite frankly, I was surprised that he hit the time slot at all, but I will give credit where credit is due. I put in my order for the three faces and a set of wall shadows, which is this really cool set of twelve or fourteen figures. I saw them when I went to Aburi a few weeks back, and really liked them. I wasn’t going to get any, but the fact that it kept rattling around in my head must have meant something.

I bargained hard, and ended up getting the three faces, plus the set of wall shadows for 230,000 cedis (25 dollars) and a set of beat-up shoes that I would be leaving here anyway. It is a lot of work, and the faces won’t be easy, so I don’t mind paying a good chunk of money for them. It’s well worth it.

Francis and Duncan also put in some orders. Francis ordered a whole slew of things and Duncan ordered a couple more masks. After this, Duncan and I played some Spar. The cards have swung his way, and he is starting to beat me up a bit.

Duncan and I made our way over to Volta Hall. He had some things to pick up from Sandra the Tailor, and I had to drop of my laundry with the guy behind the hall who has a machine. Everything was fine, except one thing – the power was out, which meant no laundry. A bummer, sure, but not a big deal. The big thing is that I walked over with these buckets of clothes and didn’t want to waste my trip down the four flights of stairs. I met Duncan at Sandra’s to buy some scraps of cloth for a friend. This, I think, is my final piece of business with Sandra. I have everything I want and, honestly, I can’t afford to buy any more clothing.

After hauling my clothes back up the Legon Hall stairs, Duncan and I went over to Chicken Inn, which is right next to Bonjour (formerly known as On the Run). Both of us were hungry – we each got hamburgers, which is a treat – and both of us needed to use there facilities. My trips for meals, sadly, revolve around when I have to use the restroom. Considering the state of the bathrooms – the toilets have been flushed once in the last three weeks and we know have mushrooms growing in the urine trough – you can understand why I will literally walk a mile to use a clean restroom.

On the way to Chicken Inn, I received a piece of great news: Africa Aid has decided to send a thousand dollars to the refugee camp immediately. Thank God. This trip has been amazing but this is truly the cherry on top. While it is not perfect, it is something. I am so glad that I’ll be around to see this program get officially put into place. I’ve worked two years to see this happen, and now, it’s so close to happening. Even though I told Jeremiah that I wouldn’t be returning to camp because the lack of need to go there, I have reason to return now.

From Chicken Inn, we went to the Performing Arts Center, where Duncan picked up a pair of really sick drums which come from Northern Ghana. They have a distinctly different sound than the Southern drums.

Prior to some meeting we had to attend, a thief was caught stealing a cell phone right outside of Annex A. In a place were so many have so little, thievery is simply not tolerated. Typically, a thief would receive the Ghanaian justice of “pounding and ponding” – a beating and either being thrown into a pond or having water thrown at them, which hurts, bruises and scars. This particular thief got slapped in the head a couple of times and then was taken to the police station. What seemed like a riot settled very quickly.

At 5:30, we had an “emergency meeting” with Professor John Marcum, the UC-wide Director of EAP. Without being told, we knew the meeting would revolve around last week’s accident. What it turned into, at least the way I heard it, was a complete ripping of EAP and the program. At the same time, though, everyone stressed that the program should not be cancelled – it just needed to be changed in important ways. I don’t think the meeting was particularly productive in terms of finding solutions to the problems. It wasn’t a complete waste of time, but it wasn’t a particularly effective use of time either.

By the end of the meeting, the electricity had returned, so Duncan and I made our way up to the internet café to check emails and load pictures.

We ended the night by shooting a couple of games of pool.

Friday, December 1st

I can’t believe it’s December. I remember looking at the calendar when we first arrived and I thought, “We need to get through four months and then we’ll be close to going home.” Well, now we’re close to going home. I also recall saying to people that once we hit November, the rest of the time will fly. I really don’t know where November went. It was like a blink.

The bed was feeling particularly comfortable this morning. It’s really hard to find the motivation to get out of bed when I know I have no class and no exams for the next eleven days. But there were still things to get done.

I walked over to Volta to make sure that the laundry man was there. This is only the second time that I will be having my laundry done, and I’m only getting it done by someone now because I ran out of Woolite. He told me that my laundry – twelve shirts, a pair of shorts and five pairs of pants – would cost me 30,000 cedis. Not too bad, especially since it is machine washed.

From Volta, I made my way to Western Union to pick up some money. In the wake of losing my ATM card, Western Union has been a savior. The power of technology is such that someone can send money online to a place and it can be picked up almost instantly.

Duncan and I grabbed some French bread Pizza at Pizza Inn, then headed to the EAP office to have one-on-one meetings with Professor Marcum. I gave a few recommendations on how EAP can be improved, but stressed the importance of keeping the program here, a question which he had raised last night. Simply put, there are lessons to be learned here that can’t be taken out of any book or learned in any classroom; these are the lessons that are priceless. I also had a small meeting with Auntie Irene, bringing up the same issues that I brought up with Professor Marcum.

I returned to Volta to drop off my laundry, and on the way back, filled up a bucket with water. We’ve had running water once since I’ve been back from Egypt, and according to people here, there was no running water during the time I was in Egypt. That means our toilets have been flushed once in the last three weeks. I don’t need to post any pictures for you to imagine the disaster that is our restroom.

I received more good news from AfricaAid: a thousand dollars was sent today to the refugee camp and was picked up by Jeremiah. I will make my way out to Camp tomorrow morning to discuss the issues and to ensure that everything is going okay on Camp.
For the evening, most of EAP showed up for a traditional African funeral for Brenna. Like I’ve said in posts prior, African funerals take on a much different tone than American funerals. The night was full of dancing and singing, much like our first week here. And yes, as with any African funeral, there was plenty of akpoteshie to go around.

After a beer at Bush Canteen, Duncan and I headed to Rich Love for some late-night dinner. We downed a fantastic 20,000 bowl of rice, chicken and tomato-pepper sauce, and turned in for the night.
One more note: today is World AIDS Day. Africa, more than any other place in the world, is hurt by AIDS. There are currently 25 million people in Africa who have AIDS; many will not receive proper, if any support. Further, there are more than 10 million children who are orphaned because their parents died from AIDS. So today, I recommend a couple of things. Firstly, take some time to learn how dire the situation is here. I highly recommend watching the movie “Yesterday.” It was a film produced by HBO and it does an incredible job of showing the issues of AIDS in Africa. Secondly, I encourage everyone to find something to contribute to the cause. Recently, I purchased a (RED) campaign phone; a portion of the funds go to the Global Fund, which works to put an end to Tuberculosis, Malaria and AIDS. In one way or another, find a way to give to this cause. Too many people are affected by a disease that is preventable and treatable.

Saturday, December 2nd

I will admit this – it is hard to have a perfect day in Ghana. Usually, something manages to go wrong, whether it be a tro-tro breaking down, or whatever it is. Something usually doesn’t go to plan. But I can honestly say that today was a perfect day in Ghana.

I woke up on the early side and made my way out to Buduburam. I was incredibly excited for this meeting. The wheels of our school lunch program were finally in motion.

I arrived early, and Jeremiah meet me at SHIFSD at 10 AM sharp, as planned. We waited a bit of time for Mr. Zakama, who oversees the program. By 10:20, our meeting was underway.

The meeting went absolutely perfectly. We discussed how to cut some items out of the budget and how to maximize the money that would be coming in from AfricaAid. We reinforced the fact that they were completely in charge of how money got distributed toward food. After all, Americans should not be deciding what Liberians should be eating. But most importantly, we started bouncing around the idea of building a kitchen specifically for SHIFSD. After an initial assessment in San Diego months ago, we threw that idea out the window. But the fact is that it makes much more economic sense to have their own kitchen. Plus, in having their own kitchen, SHIFSD can bring in parents of the children to do the cooking. The distribution of money would spread even further.

This was probably my last meeting at Buduburam While the end result is good, I can’t even begin to express how underutilized I feel by the non-profit. It’s not everyday that a San Diego non-profit will have someone in Africa at their whim for five months. I feel like they wasted me as an asset, but it’s their loss.

I will say, though, that seeing all of this happen has really been the cherry on top of this trip. I thought that the Lunch Program was a lost cause, but now, it’s like a child growing up in front of my eyes. I am so gratified by seeing all of this happen.

On the way back to Legon, I stopped at Circle to pick up a couple of items: a Michael Essien jersey for a friend and a Ghanaian flag for me. I actually got pretty reasonable prices. The two together cost less than twenty dollars, so I can’t complain.

Once I got back in Legon, I started putting together some emails and documents that would be important for the success of the school lunch program. I also picked up my laundry from Volta. This was probably the last load of laundry here – just another realization that this trip is winding down. Oh, and the guy lost one of my shirts. There goes my perfect day, but still, nothing is taking me down off this high.

LDG

BH

Monday, November 27, 2006

"Home" and Heartbreak

Thursday, November 23rd – Home and Heartbreak

I sure didn’t sleep for the plane rides from Casablanca to Abidjan and continuing to Accra, but I rested. My eyes were shut, and I was definitely relaxed, but not asleep by any means. It didn’t matter. I would have plenty of time to sleep during the day .

I stepped off the plane, and the humidity hit me like a slap in the face. At the same time though, it felt very normal. Overall, coming back to Ghana was a little bit like coming back “home.” Everything seemed so normal from the humidity to the accents to the taxi drivers giving me obruni prices.

Instead of forking out 40,000 cedis for the ride to Legon, I walked for a mile, then took a tro-tro for 2,000. The taxi drivers laughed at me for wanting to take a tro-tro; a laughed back at them for not giving them any money.

I got back to Legon, and passed out immediately. I set my alarm for 11:30AM, so I could meet with my advisor about my project. I slept well – enough to get me going through the day and back onto a normal sleep schedule.

After waking up, I went into Joe’s room, where there were a rather large collection of people. They asked me how my trip was, when I got back – all the usually questions about the trip. I asked them about some “accident” that happened. All I knew that there was an accident – that was as specific as the email got. Then the news was broken

Brenna, a girl from UC Santa Cruz, died in a tro-tro ride on the AccraKumasi Road. Needless to say, I was shocked. Not only that, it really put my own trip into perspective. Prior to hearing the news, I was going to break into a tirade about all the not-so-great stuff that happened on my trip, but after that moment, none of it mattered. Nothing else really mattered. I lost my ATM card. This girl lost her life. Her family lost a daughter, a cousin, a niece. Her friends lost a dear one. In comparison, my issues were nothing, and complaining about them just seemed wrong.

The truth – the sad truth – is that I barely knew Brenna. My memories of her are few and far between, but there is one that stands out. Brenna was the first person who I talked to on this whole trip. We walked through security together in San Francisco. I remember turning to her after we walked through and I said, “You ready?” Wearing her red, plaid Capri pants and an ear-to-ear smile, she calmly said “Yea.”

She was seated on my right side on the flight from San Francisco. We talked for a bit, but I fell asleep and she kept reading her book, I’m sure. We probably would have been seated next to each other on the flight back from New York. Now, there will be no body there – just her spirit.

I met with my advisor, who said everything looked good. The rest of the day was pretty mixed. I was still brimming from my trip, and the forthcoming dinner was something I looked forward to. At the same time, there was no way to keep this tragedy out of my mind.

Thanksgiving dinner was pretty amazing. The food was fantastic. It was a blend of American culture – turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, cranberry, and peas – and Ghanaian culture – rice and chicken. It was really good to see everyone from EAP. At this point, we’ve become a support system for each other. The food portion of the dinner concluded with the most American food possible – apple pie and ice cream.

Once people finished eating, people started speaking briefly – memories of and thoughts for Brenna and her family. I said something along the lines of the memory written above, and that’s when I become somewhat shaken by the whole situation. I had held it together for the most of the day, but at that moment, it hit me.

I spent the rest of the night talking with family and friends, and just trying to keep myself together.

Friday, November 24th – Back to the Normalcy of Nothing

This day barely justifies any writing. I don’t think I did anything of significance. I spent a good chunk of the day listening to music, playing cards with Duncan and writing about Egypt.

Saturday, November 25th – Studying? What?

I slept in, and got right to studying once I got out of bed. My exam for Poli 323 – Conflicts in African States – is tomorrow, and I really don’t feel prepared. I spent the better part of the day reading through my notes and narrowing down my notes into a few pages that I could easily remember.

Kevin, Hao, Mark and I were supposed to have a study session, but Mark went somewhere and never returned, and Hao felt that she just needed to go through the notes by herself – no biggie. Kevin and I swapped some notes and verbalized the most important things. I tend to remember things much better when I hear them.

After an hour or so, I took a small break, then got back to reading through the notes. After spending the day with this material, I feel ready. I was in bed by 1AM, which, for a pre-exam night, is really good. I wish I could take all of my exams on five hours of sleep.

Sunday, November 26th – Final and Funeral

I woke up promptly at 6:30 and, oh my god, there is running water. It’s a miracle. I took a quick shower, and headed off to my exam. I must say that having an exam on Sunday is just unholy, in both the figurative in literal sense. Sunday is my weekend, but it’s a day of church for most of the people in school. I’m somewhat surprised that the school offers finals on Sundays.

The exam was easy – really easy. I wrote about eleven pages, nearly filling out the exam book. I’m confident that I will be getting an A in that class.

There was a scheduled funeral for 3:00 but it was a Christian funeral. None of the girls closest to Brenna were too thrilled about this, as Brenna wasn’t particularly religious, and neither are most of the EAP people. Nearly none of the EAP people showed up to the Christian service. Instead, we held a quickly organized candlelight vigil/memorial which was lovely. Many tears flowed. I know they did for me.

I had to leave early to study for a bit. I have another final on Tuesday for the class I didn’t go to all semester. After a little reading, I went to Tyme Out to have a drink with a bunch of EAP people, some of whom will be leaving tomorrow nights. It’s sad that their trip has been cut short, but its for the better.

Monday, November 27th – Studying (?) Again.

Not a lot today. Just a whole lot of studying – reading, notetaking, all that stuff. Hopefully I will be prepared for this exam tomorrow.

Tonight, I’m talking with Ryan and Joe. It’s something that I not only want, but really need at this point. Without a doubt, they are my two best friends. I know that they are there for me right now. They’re always there for me. But especially right now, it’s really nice to know that they are there.

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US STUDENT DIES IN GHANA CRASH

20-year-old UC student studying abroad was on bus; 3 other students injured

Brenna Fessenden, a 2004 Maria Carrillo High School graduate studying in Africa, died Monday in a bus accident in Ghana.

Fessenden, 20, was participating in the University of California's Education Abroad Program in the African nation. She and three other students were returning from a weekend trip to a game preserve in Mole National Park, located north of the city of Accra.

Few details about the accident in Ghana were available Tuesday. But family members said they were told the accident apparently involved a "smallish bus" that may have rolled over, said Eric Fessenden of Santa Rosa, Brenna Fessenden's father.

"She was having an amazing experience. Every time she called it was just another great story," said her father, a school teacher at Alta Mira Middle School in Sonoma.

"She was loving it, but she was also counting the days till she came home," he said.

Fessenden, who had been in Ghana for a semester-long study program since mid-July, was scheduled to return to Santa Rosa on Dec. 19. Bruce Hanna, communications director for the universitywide study-abroad office in Goleta, said the three other program participants are in stable condition and that all the families have been notified.

Their names were not immediately available.

Fessenden's father said she was a model student who recently attained standing as a senior during her third year at UC Santa Cruz, where she was majoring in psychology.

He said that at Maria Carrillo, Fessenden excelled in her studies, taking advanced placement classes. He described his daughter as the kind of person who was thrilled to discover new places and cultures, noting she had been to Europe twice and once to China.

"That's why she chose Ghana, because it was very different," he said. "She always felt a little isolated going to Rincon Valley and Maria Carrillo."

Maria Carrillo Principal Mark Klick said Fessenden was a person who wanted to make a difference in life and would always reach out to people.

Klick said that while at the Santa Rosa high school, Fessenden earned a 4.0-plus grade point average and also received a community service award, which is given to students who do more than 100 hours of community service within a single year.

Fessenden was a music lover and played saxophone in Maria Carrillo's school jazz band, symphony and wind ensemble. She also loved to express herself through writing.

"She was totally willing to let her child out, but was also very mature and composed when she needed to be," Eric Fessenden said.

"She was beautiful," he said. "She was known as the 'Golden Child' - always upbeat and a problem solver."

In addition to her father, Fessenden is survived by her 14-year-old sister, Ainslee, and by her mother, Kristie Gardner, a teacher who works with independent study students at many Santa Rosa high schools.

Eric Fessenden said it could take a week or more before his daughter's body is returned to California. Services will be announced at a later date.

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LDG

Sunday, November 26, 2006

The Massive Trip, Part III: Return to Cairo

Monday, November 20th – The Egyptian Side

I think there is a curse on me in Egypt. After getting through immigration just fine, I walked to the bus station. I feared the worst as the ticket the guy gave me on Friday had Friday’s date on it in Arabic numerals. But I knew that this was the ticket that I was given for today.

I showed him the ticket and asked if it was for Cairo, and as I feared, he said it was for last Friday. Now, I needed to drop another seventy Egyptian Pounds for another ticket.

At first, I tried to be peaceful with him, explaining the misunderstanding and asking for my money back. He knew he made a mistake – he admitted it. He said he was sorry, but there was nothing he could do. Now I’m angry, and my words showed it. With the help of a very nice English-speaking man named Mohamed, I expressed my utter anger. I said that it was “just wrong” of this guy not to do right. “You make a mistake and you pay for it.” It’s something I’ve had to deal with too many times on this trip. Finally, the guy gave me twenty Pounds “out of his own pocket.” What a crock – knowing the way Africa works, that twenty pounds will go straight from the lockbox back into his pocket.

Once on the bus, the Egyptian government asked for my passport forty pounds to get back into the country. I had to pay taxes on both sides: 60 shekels on the Israeli side, 40 pounds on the Egyptian side – Ridiculous. That’s more taxes than I pay in the States.

Fifteen minutes into the ride, the Egyptian government asked for my passport again. Yes, I am American, yes I went to Israel, and yes, I have a visa. Now let me be!

After six hours, the bus arrived in Cairo at 10:30. I managed to find a bank that would exchange shekels for pounds, and got some additional pounds for dollars. I decided to walk into Islamic Cairo to try to find this theatre that holds Sufi dancing on Monday nights. Sadly, no one could guide me in the right direction, but walking through Islamic Cairo was still really cool. Surrounded by massive mosques, I walked through a quiet market.

I returned toward the hostel at which I had stayed for my first few days. But before getting there, I found my first shwarma. Shwarma is like a cheese steak sandwich, except without the cheese. Meat, tomatoes, sauce, bread. So good. I hit some internet real quick to let my parents I was back in Cairo safely, and then returned for more shwarma. It’s so good!
I must say that I am starting to feel a little traveled out. Constantly being on the move, city to city, country to country, has really taken it out of me. I haven’t been settled in a place on this trip for more than 2 nights. Many places, I only spent one night. I’m ready to stop moving and just settle down.

Has it been worth it? Absolutely. Seeing the mummies and the pyramids and the Sphinx and the Western Wall, it’s all worth it. But it doesn’t make it any less tiring. I’m thinking that I may just stay in Casablanca and not go into Rabat as planned.

Heading back to the room, I met two guys named James and Matt. Matt is a British guy who does off-shore surveying. He supplied me with a couple beers for the night, which was fantastic. James is a 28 year old who went to Georgia Tech. He’s planning on going to London School of Business. I am jealous of him as he has been in 36 countries, and will be going to China next month. The three of us spent most of the night talking.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: traveling isn’t just about the sites or the places. More than anything, traveling is about the people you meet. Whether they be locals or fellow travelers, everybody has a story – including yourself. Trading traveling stories with other travels is a great time. You just never know who you will meet and what you will learn.
Especially when traveling alone, when you think there is no one there with you, you have to talk to people. The truth is that there is always someone there with you.

Tuesday, November 21st – Mosques and Markets

I slept in until 10 today, but I still feel tired. I really wanted to see the Museum of Islamic Art. It’s supposed to be one of the best collections of Middle Eastern art. I asked a policeman where the museum was and he said, “Museum is closed. Come back one year.” Yea, okay.

I was somewhat disappointed, but it wasn’t a big deal. I wandered around and made my way into Khan al-Khalili, the sprawling Cairo market. Everything is available in the market from food to clothes to tourist items like stuffed toy camels. I walked through the non-tourist section first – without a second look from anyone. Everyone thought I was Egyptian. People starting speaking Arabic to me. When I told them that I didn’t speak Arabic, they were appalled. “You look like an Egyptian.” “You have an Egyptian face.” “Is your family Egyptian.”

After walking through the larger section of the market, I hit the tourist section. I got a couple gifts for people and some really nice smelling Egyptian cologne for me.

For a good couple hours after, I walked through the rest of Islamic Cairo, checking out mosque after mosque. I couldn’t get over the beautiful architecture. While the mosques were cool, the better experience was walking through a smaller, definitely non-tourist market. The market is predominately filled with food, including live animals, which was interesting. I think the best part was seeing some donkeys pulling a cart. It was like time-traveling through a couple centuries.

I went back using my own sense of direction and instinct. I got some shwarma, which is starting to become a theme for this trip. I hit some quick internet to check my mail, and spent the rest of the night James, his friend Angelee, and a young woman named Beth from Washington, D.C. We got some small food, a lot of beer, and just enjoyed each other’s company.

Wednesday, November 22nd – The “Royal” Treatment

At 1:30AM, Beth and I split a taxi to the airport. She had a 5AM flight to Italy, and mine left at 7:15 for Casablanca. I would have taken a taxi for myself, but my funds for the trip were down to 20 Pounds, not enough for taxi for myself.

I found a bench in the airport and slept for a couple hours until I could check in. I was given boarding passes for both flights – Cairo to Casablanca, Casablanca to Accra via Abidjan, Cote D’Ivoire. After a checking in, I slept for a couple more hours near the gate.

Boarding the plane was really nice. Besides watching a bright orange sun rise through the grey haze, I knew I was on my way back “home,” although the eleven hour lay-over was something that was not to be desired. Once again, I had a whole row to myself to myself. I slept for all but twenty minutes of the flight – much needed rest for sure.

I arrived in Morocco at 10:15, and as I thought, I had no desire to go anywhere. I went upstairs to the transit office, where they gave me a three-star hotel room at Atlas Airport Hotel, with free lunch and dinner. Thank you, Royal Air Maroc. I had a fantastic three course meal for lunch: a salad, some pasta with chicken, and a delicious slice of cake. From there, I went upstairs and switched off between watching CNN or BBC and napping. Before I knew it, it was just about time for dinner. I took a forty-five minute blazing hot shower – yes, forty-five minutes – and went downstairs for dinner. Once again, the food was delicious – chicken soup and beef with rice.

The hotel arranged a shuttle for all the late-night flights. A full bus of mostly French-speaking Africans loaded in and the long trip continued.

In the airport, I met a youngish man named Darren. Darren is from South Carolina, but has been living in Guinea for the last nine years. He gave me his information which I passed off to Duncan, who would have more interest than me. I bought myself a five-pack of Toblerone –quite possibly the most amazing candy ever – and got on board.

Once again, an easy flight with a whole row to myself. I actually managed to stay up for the food and then rested for the remaining time through Abidjan and then Accra.

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All in all, the last nine days have been amazing. It was a trip that was drenched in history. Yea, it had its bad side. Losing my ATM wasn’t cool, and not having my battery for Giza sucked. Mistakes and stupidity, they’re temporary. But memories are forever, and I got more than my fair share on this trip.

Once again, I just want to acknowledge my grandparents – Bubbie, Zeda Ben, Ann, and ZB – who gave me the great Hanukkah gift of the plane tickets. I am so grateful. Thank you so much!

LDG

Friday, November 24, 2006

The Massive Trip, Part II: Israel

Friday, November 17th – On the Road Again

I didn’t sleep last night. Maybe it’s just a little anxiety prior to traveling, but more likely it’s paranoia. So far, something not so great has happened every day of the trip. If there was a way for my alarm not to go off at 4:30, it would happen.

Of course, my alarm went off just fine. I considered resetting it for 5, but I didn’t want to push my luck. And a half hour of sleep wouldn’t do me a whole lot of good anyway. I’ll just try to sleep on the bus ride from Cairo to Taba, the border town to Israel.

The bus left at 6:30 as scheduled. And I passed out for most of the trip (thank to the Swiss girl for taking this picture without telling me). I don’t remember anything from the ride. I had five seats in the back row going across. So far, I’ve been really lucky when it comes to being able to sleep on transport.

The bus arrived at 12:30, two hours earlier than I expected. I bought my return ticket to Cairo for Monday so I wouldn’t have to deal with it later. From the bus station, it’s a kilometer or two to the border. The Egyptian side had just a few issues, namely my malaria meds, my Pepto-Bismol (which I take with me everywhere I travel) and my cameras. They destroyed my bag, but everything got restored for the most part.

The Israeli side was a completely different story. Right at the front, I was asked why I was going to Israel. I told them I was visiting a friend at one of the universities, and the first person let me through. They checked my bag for explosives and anything else dangerous, which was fine. Then I came to Shelly. Shelly asked me about thirty questions, ranging from why I had all these stamps in my passport to where my family was from to my two personal favorites: “Do you have an Israeli passport?” and “Are you sure you’re not Israeli?”

After the line of questions, I made my way through to Israel. The view into Israel when crossing the border is just amazing – a great welcome into the country.

There were two times I realized on this trip how important it was for me to come to Israel. The first was when I lost my Visa card and I had to reassess my trip. With such a small budget, my trip to Israel was the first thing to be scratched off the agenda. But once the money came via Western Union, I was elated because I knew I could make it to Israel.

The second realization came as I crossed the border. Surrounded by the azure blue sea, a smile so wide filled my face when I saw the sign “Baruchim HaBaim” – Welcome to Israel. I knew I was welcomed.

I walked a short distance to try to catch a bus to the station, but the buses had stopped coming because Shabbat was approaching. Brien, a man who also was waiting for the bus, and I decided to split a cab to Eilat.

Brien is a man from Holland who has been traveling around Kenya and Tanzania for some time. We exchanged “war stories” from Africa and bonded pretty well, despite the eighteen years that separated us. We each wanted to go to Jerusalem, but buses to Jerusalem were finished for the day. So we put together a game-plan: bus to Tel Aviv, split a room in Tel Aviv, then head to Jerusalem the next night. We bought our tickets to Tel Aviv, mine at the student rate of 58 and a half Shekels (about 14 dollars – 4.1 Shekels = 1 USD), grabbed a slice a pizza, and we were on the road again.

The ride to Tel Aviv through the desert is beautiful. About half way through, we made a quick stop for snacks and drinks. I got myself some Doritos and soda, just enough to keep me going until I could fall asleep in Tel Aviv. I told Brien, as the bus was loading, that it was time to go, but he was in the back of the line. The driver got on, and said something in Hebrew, of which I only understood one word: Kulam – “everyone.” I knew exactly what he was saying – “Is everyone on board?” which is such a stupid question, because what are the people not on board going to say? I could have told him no, but quite frankly, unless you’re family or a good friend of mine, I am not responsible for you getting back on board.

The bus, which left at 3 in the afternoon, arrived in Tel Aviv 7:35, pretty good time. My first mission was to find an internet café, so I could tell my parents I was okay. I had about an hour online, where I was able to get some information about how to get to Jerusalem.

From the café, I wandered around Tel Aviv for about an hour, trying to find a hostel. Some guy offered to take me to one, for 250 Shekels; I told him maybe, and walked away. Instead, I just asked around, and nice people pointed me to Momo’s, which was just a block away from the Mediterranean. I got myself a dorm-style room for about 60 Shekels.

I decided that it would be best to knock out some reading, get a shower, and go to bed. I took a hot shower for the first time in 4 months, which was just amazing, and got my reading done. But instead of falling asleep, I stayed up talking to hostel-mates: Ben, an agnostic German; Eli, a Costa Rican Jew; and Luis, a Mexican Catholic. Despite being exhausted, I stayed up talking with them until 1:30AM, discussing just about everything, including all of our excitement over the new Democratic face of the American Congress. After a night cap – a delicious Stella Artois – it was time for sleep.

Saturday, November 18th – Tel Aviv and Jerusalem

Up around 9, I got myself a bit of free breakfast that the Hostel provided and a blazing hot shower. I took a couple minutes to check my email and figure out exactly how to get to the Yitzhak Rabin Memorial in Tel Aviv. I remember when Rabin was assassinated. I was still in Yavneh Day School, and the mood of the school was just black around that time. It is one of those events from my youth that still resonates with me.

The memorial is simple – 16 black stones that appear to be thrown by an earthquake. It is supposed to represent how his killing was an earthquake to the Middle East Peace Process, to Israeli politics and to Israel as a whole. There is also a good bit of the graffiti that was written around where he was shot.

When a tourist bus full of Danish people drove up, I made my way out toward the bus station. No buses run to the bus station in Jerusalem because of Shabbat, but Eli and Luis told me that I could catch a monit sherut to Jerusalem. A monit sherut is the closest thing that Israel will ever get to a tro-tro. It is a shared taxi – a van – which, like a tro-tro, will not leave until it is filled. A van this size in Ghana would take between 22 and 30 people; this van took 10. I paid my 25 shekels and by 12:30, we were out of Tel Aviv.

The ride to Jerusalem was short – just 45 minutes. A couple of idiot taxi drivers couldn’t get me to Jaffa Gate Hostel. There are few things that bother me more than a taxi driver who doesn’t know the city in which they work. I ended up walking to the hostel, which was just fine. The hostel is in the Old City, very close to the Armenian Quarter.

I had one goal for the day: get down to the Western Wall. It is a truly beautiful site, with the Dome of the Rock sitting right behind it. I took about 15 pictures, including one with me in it. I could have taken a million shots – this scene is what postcards are made of.

By the time the sun went down, it was cold. I don’t mean cold by West African standards – I mean see-your-breath cold. I got a couple hot chocolates and an amazing kosher hot dog and did some reading at a restaurant near by. After eating, I jumped on the internet, to talk to my parents and my sister. The power of the internet is an amazing thing.

After one last hot chocolate, I returned to the hostel and had a brief conversation with Steve. A sixty-year-old man from Boston who has lived in Asia for most of his life, Steve and I actually found a common love – American football. Despite not being in the States for a while, he still keeps up with his favorite team, the New England Patriots. Sitting around the television, “Collateral Damage,” starring my governor, Arnold Schwarzenegger, came on. A couple minutes into the movie, none other but Brien walks in the door – craziness. I asked him what happened to him. He told me that he had to stay in Ashdod for the night and made his way up to Jerusalem that day. What are the chances that we’d end up in the same hostel?

Brien fell asleep pretty quickly, but Steve, another guy and I stayed and enjoyed what was actually not a half-bad movie. Around 11:30, it was time for sleep – another travel day tomorrow.

Sunday, November 19th – Yad VaShem

There were two things I came to see in Jerusalem: one was the Wall. The other was Yad VaShem, the Holocaust Museum. This was the third Holocaust museum I have visited, and it never gets any easier.

I slept until 10, and from the Old City, I caught the 25 bus to the museum, which is in the opposite side of the city. I could have gone for free, but decided that it would be well worth the 30 Shekels to go on a guided tour.

The tour was just amazing. It’s a brand new building. The building is constructed such that it gets narrower in the middle, which makes you feel constricted and uncomfortable. The museum starts with a blended video, which makes its way across towns in Europe and shows what life was like before and during the Holocaust. The museum runs through every stage of the Holocaust, from the Nazi rise to power, to the Nuremburg Laws, through the Warsaw Ghetto (the cobblestones, bench, lamppost and cart for bodies are all authentic), into the extermination camps like Treblinka, ending with the Allied victory.

There were three things that really stood out to me. The first was a propaganda video from Latvia. The video, like most of the pictures and video, was shot by Nazi soldiers. It showed Latvian Jews digging the ditches that would be graves, and being shot in the back of the head. One after the other. It is a staggering piece of video.

The second was the display of shoes. There is something similar to this in the museum in Washington, D.C. It’s one of those reminders that for every pair of shoes there, there was a body that walked in them.

The third was a family picture from Jewish wedding taken from 1937, prior to the Holocaust. Of the 64 people pictured in the photo, 54 of them were killed during the Holocaust. Just unbelievable.

I wasn’t supposed to take any pictures, but here are a few more

One Nation...
Jude
Tools to measure Jews' facial features
A torah recovered from Kristallnacht

The last bit of the museum is a memorial cemetery, dedicated to the six million Jews killed in the Holocaust. It is made of two domes: one toward the roof filled with 600 pictures, the other below filled with murky water and reflections. The entire room is surrounded by books of files with names and profiles of people killed. They said that they had 3 million profiles and hoped that the empty shelves would fill out soon.

After walking through the Avenue of the Righteous – a pathway lined with trees dedicated to non-Jews who helped Jews during the Holocaust – I went to the Children’s Memorial. One and a half million children were killed during the Holocaust. It is beautifully and darkly represented with pictures of children as well as a room filled with candles and mirrors, creating the illusion of thousands upon thousands of lights, representing their lives. Over a speaker system, the names, ages and cities of the children are read. After many years of being open, the list has yet to be read through completely once.

After sipping on a hot chocolate, I took the city bus to the bus station. I got some more shekels, bought my ticket to Eilat and a slice of pizza, and I was back in a bus. It was possibly the safest ride I’ve ever taken. 14 members of the military/police were on my bus – myself not among them, although it sure looks like it.

The trip took 4.5 hours through the beautiful desert. I got a hostel room for 20 dollars, dropped off my stuff and went on the hunt for an internet café, which was surprisingly hard to find. I ended up in a massive mall, which just felt kind of weird. It was just a bit of culture shock, but I came around quickly. I checked my email, talked with my parents for a few minutes and then time ran out.

I headed back to the hostel and got a delicious chocolate pastry, some sliced chicken and some bread for dinner. I planned on showering, watching the Real Madrid game, and then going to bed. But then I found American football – the Bears and the Jets – on TV. Woo! I stayed up until about 3 watching the game. I’d have to be up at 7:30, but I didn’t care. It was football!

Monday, November 20th – The Israeli Side

I got up at 7:30 as scheduled, took my last hot shower until I get home to California, packed and got out by 8. I walked to the bus station and caught a city bus to the border. Everything went smoothly at the border. I got asked, again, if I had an Israeli passport, and if I was sure of it. Uhh, ya. I’m sure.